2000 Ch. Beauséjour

This would have been made with shorter extraction times than today, with traditionally hands-off winemaking techniques, and very little new oak. You can see it in the pale rose-ruby colour, almost translucent around the rim of the glass but with vibrant reflections, and delicate floral aromatics. On the palate, the crushed rocks, redcherry and liquorice of the dominant Merlot grape on limestone soils come through, along with leather and truffle. Very much in its drinking window, plenty of beauty here, with enough salinity on the finish to make things not only mouthwatering but moreish. The grandparents of Josephine Duffau Lagarrosse, the current owner whose family has been in place since 1847, made this wine. Served out of magnum.

The 2000 Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse was tasted from two bottles directly from the cellar. The first was oddly vegetal, but the second chimed with previous encounters. Sensual red cherries, raspberry preserve, rose petal and hints of black truffle feature on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with mint-tinged red berry fruit, displaying fine depth and focus and fanning out gently on the white pepper and orange peel finish. This is worth seeking out.