1996 Ruchottes Chambertin

This medium-to-dark ruby-colored wine has seductive aromas of red currants, black cherries, fresh herbs, tar, smoke, and vanillin. This is an immensely complex, masculine, and structured wine that possesses formidable density and richness. Blackberries, cassis, minerals, stones, and hints of gaminess make up this wine's delectable flavor profile. Its admirably long finish reveals copious quantities of firm yet well-ripened tannins. Drink it between 2004 and 2010+. Roumier informed me he was planning to bottle his 1996s earlier than usual to "trap the fruit." He is of the opinion that they will not be exuberant, charming, and seductive following bottling. Virtually every vigneron agreed that the 1996s have been a delight to drink from the moment the grapes were pressed. Yet Roumier thinks they will need years to be expressive. Those 1996s that I have tasted stateside have maintained their forward, fruity character, but time will tell. Importer: Chateaux and Estates Wine Co., New York, NY; Tel; (212) 572-7725.

Slightly more saturated color. Finer, more complex nose combines black cherry, minerals, licorice, iron, game, tobacco and coconut. More tightly wound than the Charmes, with terrific intensity, higher acidity, and crystal-clear flavors. Really juicy at the core. Very long and fine on the aftertaste. The kind of Burgundy that will gain in flesh as it develops in bottle.