2004 Diebolt Vallois Fleur de Passion Collection

The 2004 Brut Fleur de Passion is made from the estate’s oldest vines and fermented in oak. Warm, toasty notes meld seamlessly into a juicy, expressive core of fruit. The integration of the oak is truly masterful, and is mostly felt in the wine’s volume and textural richness. The Fleur de Passion continues to take shape beautifully in the glass, showing tons of character and breed over time. It is magnificent. This is Lot LPA05, disgorged April, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Importers: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; Vintage 59 Imports, Washington DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

Bright yellow. An intensely perfumed, mineral-dominated bouquet displays scents of Meyer lemon, green apple and nectarine, picking up notes of ginger and lemongrass with air. Incisive citrus and orchard fruit flavors are underscored by chalky minerals, which give the wine an impressive, almost painfully sharp concentration. This very young wine finishes with terrific thrust and chalky persistence.

The 2004 Brut Fleur de Passion is made from the estate’s oldest vines and fermented in oak. Warm, toasty notes meld seamlessly into a juicy, expressive core of fruit. The integration of the oak is truly masterful, and is mostly felt in the wine’s volume and textural richness. The Fleur de Passion continues to take shape beautifully in the glass, showing tons of character and breed over time. It is magnificent. This is Lot LPA05, disgorged April, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Dec 2010, www.robertparker.com