2017 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde E. Auslese
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Tasting notes
More than three-quarters of the fruit for this Auslese was healthy, reported Keller. Scents of quince jelly and white raisin anticipate the rich concentration delivered in a subtly oily mouthful of fruit. As with the corresponding Spätlese, welcome tangy brightness emerges, here in the form of fresh white currant and lime, whose seeds and zest team up for a striking tactile sense of innervation. In its intensity and sheer persistence, the finish reflects this wine’s almost implosive overall sense of concentration, though for now at least, it misses the sheer juiciness, vibrancy or sense of mineral suffusion delivered by the corresponding Spätlese.
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Cask sample. 2,600 half bottles. Usually 100% Morstein but this year 80% Morstein (grand cru) and 20% Abts E. Many of the grapes looked like currants. Some botrytis. Sweet exotic fruit. Passion fruit, apricot, bitter orange, all jumping out of the glass. Still a light oily minerality. Wow, totally exotic fruit on the palate, rich, concentrated but no excess weight thanks to the outstanding acidity. High acid gives electricity on the palate, searing freshness but still remarkably in balance. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.