1988 Biondi-Santi Riserva Collection (1998/2007/2012)

A garnet color that’s similar to the 2018 in terms of its richness, the 1988 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva has incredible aromas of raspberry leather and leaps from the glass with layered notes of leather, wild herbs, rosemary, crushed stones, and flint. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied, structured, and vibrant, with angular, bright acidity. The highly perfumed aromatics are fantastic, so the nose is the winner here, but it’s spritely on the palate, salty, and bright with elegant acidity. It might not be the most powerful wine, but it has a lot of pleasure to offer now and over the next several years. The wines for this report were tasted in January 2024 at the estate with Federico Radi, the Viticulture and Winemaking Director. While the sale of the estate to French group Epi is still fresh on many consumer minds, one thing is certain – Radi is committed to taking this estate into the future while retaining the DNA of Biondi-Santi. His humility and dedication to the greater purpose of the estate is palpable, and as his wines are beginning to come into the market (Radi joined the producer in 2017), there’s a lot to be excited about, despite his not wanting to make a fuss over his own efforts. As of this year, they have planted new vines on the property, between their iconic Cypress-lined entrance and the Pian Dell’Orino estate next door. They have worked the land to create a terraced vineyard, both to preserve water retention and to prevent erosion. In recent years they have also partnered with consultant Pedro Parra to continue to explore their soil structures and parcels further.

Vivid ruby with a slightly orange rim, the 1988 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva La Storica lifts from the glass with a wonderfully mature bouquet, blending steeped plums and blood orange with lifting hints of mint and sweet spice. This is amazingly fresh, fleshy and round yet propelled by a core of brisk acidity as masses of ripe red fruits envelope the palate. The finish is long and staining while maintaining amazing energy, tapering off with just a hint of fine tannin and a dried strawberry resonance that slowly fades. Harmonious is the word that comes to mind while tasting this cool-toned beauty. This is a stellar La Storica release that should not be missed.

Full bottle 1,371 g. A very special release, exactly a century after this wine was first produced. Transparent orange-ruby. Very different nose from the 1997! More veg than fruit. And still with massive tannins on the front of the palate – but not back of the palate in this vintage – and intriguing flavours dominated by fennel. Very clean and fresh on the finish. Great vigour. Edgier than the 1997. (JR)