2018 Oberhauser Brucke Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Given the paucity of botrytis in 2018, it’s not surprising that for the third time in four vintages, the Dönnhoffs have rendered a dry Brücke, whose 600 bottles they once again earmarked for auction. Site-typical scents of lime and red raspberry translate on the palate into a vibrantly stimulating combination of electric brightness, crunch and zest. Hints of walnut and wet stone add interest en route to a finish of remarkable penetration, brightness and sheer persistence. I have the impression that additional intricacy would already reveal itself if I only had the equivalent of sunglasses to reduce the glare! (For further background on this bottling, consult my notes on its vintage 2017 and inaugural vintage 2015 installments.)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling trocken –GG– is super clear, fresh, precise and flinty on the nose. Dense and concentrated on the palate, this is a powerful and juicy, persistently mineral Brücke with great expression. Tasted in July 2019.
Density and focus to this minerally and tangy riesling with sliced-lemon, green-melon and lemon-grass notes. Minerally undertone. White truffle. So salty. Wild and decadent. Auction only. Drink or hold.
Dönnhoff stands for purity, freshness, delicacy and often even understatement, but the latter is only a trick to focus your attention. The Brücke makes it a little bit easier, as it serves up quite a generous fragrance of fruit with local beauties such as peach and apricot at ease in the company of some more zesty citrus fruit. But one dimension, even as attractive as juicy fruit, is never the sole attraction of Dönnhoff wines, and on the palate the Brücke adds a true mineral grip with rocky edges. The finish is calmed down by effortless acidity and all ends well with a soothing textural smoothness. (MS)