2012 Gosset Celebris
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Gosset's emblematic Chardonnay-dominant 2012 Extra-Brut Celebris is a more than worthy successor to the 2008, unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, verbena, freshly baked bread, green apple and wet stones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive palate that's layered, concentrated and tensile, with a tangy spine of acidity (the house's trademark) and a long, saline finish.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
The house's top blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Avenay, Avize, Aÿ, Bouzy, Cramant, Cuis, Grauves, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Louvois, Trépail and Villers-Marmery. It had at least nine years on lees before disgorgement and dosage was 5.5 g/l. Only the ninth time this wine was made. Very complete and satisfying. Obviously long-aged on the nose and from a fine, fairly exuberant vintage. Good current drinking. Neat, well judged and well balanced. Satisfying persistence. Mature. (JR)
The ninth time the Celebris has been produced in over 400 years, the 2012 Champagne Celebris is exceptional, with layered complexity in its aromas of quince, fresh apple blossoms, and pure honey without being oxidative. Medium to full-bodied, it is gorgeous through the palate, with a supple, stony texture, pure with chalk, and an even spine of fresh acidity through the long finish. It’s another exceptional wine in the range to enjoy over the coming three decades. The oldest wine house in Champagne, established by Pierre Gosset in 1584 in Ay, Gosset was purchased by Reynaud-Cointreau in 1993. Today the chef de cave is Odilon de Varine, formerly of Deutz and Henriot, and the philosophy is to adapt to each year and not to get stuck in the past. Each of the growers’ plots are fermented separately and malolactic fermentation is entirely blocked, working with the lees to create roundness in the wines instead. The house has gradually shifted from being predominantly a Pinot Noir house to that of Chardonnay. Total annual production is approximately 1 million bottles, although they have the capacity to produce 1.5 million. They hold a considerable stock of reserve wine going back 60 years, alleviating the pressures to put out more quantity. This year marks the first release ever for the Celebris Blanc de Blancs.
The 2012 Brut Celebris is one of the most polished Champagnes I have tasted from Gosset in some time. Plenty of energy and acidity have long been signatures of this prestige cuvée, but a bit more meat on the bones keeps the wine from veering into the realm of the excessively austere, as was sometimes the case in the past. Dried lemon confit, chamomile, white pepper and salt all race across the palate. I very much admire the energy here. This blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir spent ten years on lees and saw a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter.