2004 Riesling Cuvee Ste Catherine

Hints of mothball, honey and peach kernel in the nose of the 2004 Riesling Cuvee Saint Catherine anticipate its honeyed, ripe, but bitter palate impression. There is impressive richness of fruit and texture here more than sufficient to for now offset the bitterness. But certainly this does not represent any advance in clarity – only in honeyed, almost tropical ripeness – over the corresponding Schlossberg, and I would again anticipate consumption over the next several years. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists! Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802