2004 Vin de Pays des Bouches du Rhone

Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep garnet with a brick cast. Smells ripe and seems to have a touch of eucalyptus, not unlike a mature Oz red – perhaps it is the unusual blend (unusual for France not for Trevallon). Sweet-fruited, minty and meaty. Sounds odd but is actually quite attractive and certainly distinctive. Firm, still chewy tannins – smooth but very dense and compact. Really chewy. A wine to spend the evening with. (JH)

A gorgeous wine that's still youthful and vibrant, the 2004 Bouches du Rhone is an even split of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 2 years in a combination of foudre and barrel. Seamless, elegant and layered, with fabulous cassis, lead pencil shavings, tobacco leaf and spice, this full-bodied beauty is perfectly balanced, with no hard edges, fine tannin and terrific length. Drink nicely now, it has the concentration and balance to continue to evolve gracefully for at least another decade.

Warmth and rusty nails and quite a bit of acid on the palate. Definitely out of the mainstream but intriguingly so. Strong medicinal and citrus-peel notes. Pretty drying on the end. (JR)