2016 Corton Charlemagne

Coche began to release his 2016 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru last year, and the wine is just beginning to unwind, offering up aromas of citrus oil, peach and pear mingled with freshly baked bread, toasted almonds, iodine and struck match. Full-bodied, broad and layered, with a dense core of concentrated fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish, it's from a climat that was largely spared by the frost in 2016.

Very tight but pure scents of citrus peel, wet stone and menthol, plus a whiff of toasty oak (37% new in 2016). Remarkably silky, fleshy and broad and yet this grand cru conveys an almost electric impression of energy that's rare for such a layered, rich wine. A bit less citrussy than the Perrières but this wonderfully full, concentrated Corton-Charlemagne boasts compelling sweetness and its extremely long finish stands out for its sheer sappiness. Like the Perrières, this wine should enjoy a long and spectacular life in bottle.