2006 Vosne Romanee Les Jachees

Bizot's 2006 Vosne-Romanee Les Jachees displays a resinous, faintly green note above aromas and flavors of candied berries and caramel. On the palate, this is like a buttered pastry envelope stuffed with tart-edged raspberry and cherry preserves, accompanied by deep, illusive notes of meat, moss, and minerals. That polished, intriguing performance should persist for at least 5-7 years, but – again – those less enamored by the confectionary side of Pinot or by scents and flavors of new wood ought not to apply their cash to this – or at least, not unless I am considerably under-estimating the wine's aging potential and its impression of oak subsides sooner. Jean-Yves Bizot's wines characteristically strive for elegance and finesse, although his use of 100% new wood (albeit often in 350 liter capacity) can in my experience sometimes place a questionable burden on their often delicate fruit and frame. The wines are bottled directly from cask, barrel-by barrel, with very low dosages of sulfur, so they must be carefully stored, and there will be variation among wines that bear the same label. Unsurprisingly, Bizot claimed to have backed off on his already gentle fermentative regimen to encourage what he saw as the inherently graceful virtues of 2006. None of the wines were chaptalized (unlike in 2007) and none exceeds 12.5% alcohol. Bizot, incidentally, has reached and is apparently able to sustain for his tiny production some of the highest prices I have seen anywhere in Burgundy for non-premier cru wines. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524