2017 Hermitage

Deep, brilliant violet. Powerful, mineral- and smoke-tinged black and blue fruits, potpourri and incense aromas pick up a spicy nuance as the wine opens up. Densely packed cherry, cassis and blueberry flavors show excellent clarity and building energy. Finishes impressively long and spicy, with youthfully gripping tannins and a suave, lingering candied violet quality. This is a rare bottling, from a single barrique, that is available at a single retailer in France.

Colombier's 2017 Hermitage starts off a bit lifted and minty on the nose, but those elements are balanced by the wine's huge fruit. Waves of concentrated cherry and raspberry flavors wash over the full-bodied palate, pummeled into shape by equally big tannins. This is promising, but it deserves a few more years of cellaring.

Brought up in 30% new demi-muids, with the balance in used barrels, the 2017 Hermitage is beautifully pure and layered, with smoking good notes of crème de cassis, white flowers, crushed rocks, and violets. Deep, full-bodied, and concentrated on the palate, it has plenty of tannins and is going to need 5-7 years of bottle age. This is a sensational Hermitage from Colombier that will drink well for 25+ years. These wines are made by the talented Florent Viale and shine for their purity as well as character. While the winemaking here is traditional, with the wines destemmed and brought up mostly in used demi-muids, the purity of fruit can give the impression that wines are more modern styled than they are. They will all benefit from short-term cellaring.