2008 Colheita Sercial

Hand-picked grapes from Pomar Novo in Jardim da Serra above Câmara de Lobos on the south side of the island. Andossolos soils. Vines are planted in a low trellis system, close to the ground to protect them from the strong mountain winds that come off the highest peaks. Cooler temperatures than most of the island, thanks to the altitude. 2008 was a difficult vintage and yields were very low. This colheita was aged in very old American oak barrels in the traditional canteiro system in the old Blandy’s wine lodge. 2,000 50-cl bottles. TA 8.7 g/l, VA 0.6 g/l, RS 40 g/l, pH 3.54. Amber gold. At first, the aromas were sherry-like, as if I had a palo cortado in my glass. But it kept changing in the glass: one moment crushed lavender, then dried oregano, then lemon-drizzle cake. Intense, salty candied lemon peel. Wood glue and tamarind, saffron and mace. Trembling, high-wired tensility. Very fine but piercingly aciculate acidity. Has a terse, elliptical grace. Food pairings: crisply fried whitebait with aioli; buttery garlic snails or whelks; a creamy, rind-ripened goat’s cheese; lemon chicken. Winemaker Francisco Albuquerque stressed that it should not be served cooler than 18 °C (64 °F) or the complexity will be lost. (TC)