2005 Gevrey Chambertin

Incorporating 50- to 60-year-old vines from diverse parcels both north and south of the village (even though he eschews the label notation “vieilles vignes”), Boillot’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin smells and tastes of slightly tart but ripe blackberry and cassis, conveys charred, roasted meat and salty mineral impressions on the palate, and finishes with impressive length of sweet fruit lightly but not objectionably tinged with smoke, caramel and coconut wood inflections. Also recommended: 2005 Fixin (unknown; 85-87). Having moved from Volnay to a newly-expanded facility he shares with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot fields a large and geographically diverse range of generally impressive, pure-fruited Pinots. (In rating them, I have left some leeway to allow for my previous unfamiliarity with Louis Boillot’s wines.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.