2021 St Joseph
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Tasting notes
The 2021 Saint Joseph shows the cooler, more classic style of the vintage, offering darker berries, spring flowers, pepper, and game-like nuances. Medium-bodied, fresh, and lively on the palate, it's beautifully balanced, with fine tannins and integrated acidity. Drink 2025-2035. Domaine Pierre Gonon remains one of the great names in Saint Joseph and is run today by brothers Jean and Pierre Gonon with the kind of focus and humility that defines the best of the Northern Rhône. The family's roots go back to the 1950s, when their father first planted vines in Mauves, including what would become the Coteau des Oliviers (today known as the lieu-dit Les Oliviers), a steep hillside vineyard just outside of Mauves that consistently produces some of the greatest whites in the appellation, likely due to its slightly higher clay content, which gives the wines a touch more breadth and depth. The domaine now farms around ten hectares, with holdings spread across Mauves, Tournon, and Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. In 2011, the brothers acquired the old vines of Raymond Trollat, one of the legendary figures of the appellation, including the 1915 Aubert family planting in the Saint-Épine sector. That fruit now forms the core of their Saint Joseph and, in certain vintages, the basis for a small-production Vieilles Vignes cuvée. Farming is organic, vine material is massale-selected, and the cellar approach remains minimalist and traditional, with native yeast fermentations, aging in older 600-liter barrels, and mostly destemmed fruit. These are absolutely classic Northern Rhône wines that bring beautiful structure, depth, and nuance, which come not only from great terroirs but from an incredible dedication to farming and work ethic. While their red Saint Joseph is firmly established as one of the most sought-after wines in the Northern Rhône, the hidden gem here might just be the Saint Joseph Les Oliviers Blanc, which consistently ranks among the region's top whites.
Critic scores
Alistair Cooper MW, jancisrobinson.com
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2021 Saint-Joseph from the Gonon Brothers is simply gorgeous within the context of the vintage. Evoking aromas of fresh licorice, dark cherries, smoke and dark berries, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and slightly austere with structured yet delicate tannins and a long, ethereal and mineral finish. The wine’s brooding and gently introverted character can be attributed to the hailstorm that struck on the night of September 29, which interrupted the harvest. This Saint-Joseph will benefit from some time to mellow and fully express its potential.
Vivid purple colour. Light-bodied in the correct St-Jo style, and definitely comparable to cru beaujolais. Lightly spiced at this stage, with petals not yet unfurled. A lighter vintage than some, it seems – but there's little doubt it will mature well, as this producer's wines always do. (RH)
The 2021 Saint-Joseph used roughly 50% whole-clusters during fermentation. In comparison, 2022 saw 85% inclusion, while in 2017, no destemming was applied. Coming in at 12.5% alcohol, the deep purple-hued 2021 unfurls with pretty red fruits paired with leafy undertones and cedar. Orange blossom and rose petal add welcome floral lift. Light to medium in body, this is a delicate Gonon, neatly framed by velvety tannins and bright acidity. It should drink well right out of the gate. Tasted twice with consistent notes.