2004 Le Montrachet
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Tasting notes
Just the first hint of autumn creeping into the nose. Again that wonderful combination of lean and luxury. Laced with mineral and hugely impressive and yet never haughty. The grand lines of a Hawksmoor church but as welcoming as a village pub. Very very close to perfection. FINE+RARE
Critic scores
FINE+RARE
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
This bottle of 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) was not quite at the level of the spellbinding bottles served five years earlier. It retains that lovely citrus-fresh, hazelnut-tinged nose that becomes ever flintier with aeration. It might be quibbling, but this bottle does not deliver the same tension as I found before, despite the wonderful salinity that gets the saliva flowing on the finish. It's still a superb "Monty", but there are superior examples out there.
The 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru is a big and very pleasant surprise. Clean and silvery in color, it has an intense, bewitching bouquet of white peach and yellow plum, touches of petrichor developing in the glass. Taut and strict yet utterly compelling, this is what a Montrachet should be about. The palate offers brilliant delineation based on a killer line of acidity, revealing hints of lemongrass and lemon peel toward the energetic finish. This is a Montrachet that just feels so “alive.” Highly recommended. Tasted at the Montrachet vertical in London.
About the producer
Joseph Drouhin is one of the largest and most famous producers in Burgundy, making both domaine and négociant wines. It remains family-owned and run, now in the hands of the fourth generation.