2018 La del Vivo Dona Blanca

J&B write: ' Conditions in 2018 allowed for increased production of this Godello-based white with a splash of Doña Blanca. Sourced mostly from the La Poulosa vineyard and Las Villegas (planted 1925, source of Raúl’s Ultreia de Valtuille), all grapes are co-fermented with wild yeasts and matured in 2000-litre fuder and 500-litre used French casks, with no bâtonnage or racking for 12 months.' The oak seems to slightly dull the purity of the Godello in this wine. It's admirably sincere, without being a huge amount of refreshing fun at the moment. But perhaps it will mature into something great? The alcohol seems to dominate the acidity at the moment. A bit of sackcloth rather than satin? Quite an astringent finish too. (JR)

2018 is a great vintage: The cycle was long and Godello ripened properly, so they avoided the excess bitterness on the finish, as you can see in the 2018 La Vizcaína La del Vivo. It's made the same way as in previous years: they use 500-liter oak barrels and one amphora with skins and flor that is used for the final blend. Having such perfect ripeness, the wine is very tasty, and there's no fruit but a lot more austerity—they select the vineyards (around two hectares) for that straight and austere character (there is a little bit of Doña Blanca too, which adds to the austerity). It has a saline palate and some rugosity, complex, with no room for sweetness. I think this could live 10 years and develop great complexity. In 2019, they replaced some of the barrels with a 2,500-liter oak foudre. This is the most austere and serious white in its finest vintage. A white for purists and one that is going to develop very slowly. There are 4,000 bottles of this. It was bottled in September 2019.