2002 Philipponnat Cuvee 1522 L.V

Another standout, the 2002 Extra Brut Grand Cru Cuvee 1522 cuts a dashing profile. A wine of notable energy and length, the 2002 flows across the palate with green pears, apples, white flowers and smoke. This is a powerful, incisive Champagne that needs time to soften. The 2002 is two-thirds Pinot Noir from Ay and one-third Chardonnay from Oger, both Grand Crus. I suggest drinking the 2003 while the 2002 ages. It isn't likely to be going anywhere anytime soon. Dosage was 4 grams per liter. This bottled was disgorged in April 2010.

Another standout, the 2002 Extra Brut Grand Cru Cuvee 1522 cuts a dashing profile. A wine of notable energy and length, the 2002 flows across the palate with green pears, apples, white flowers and smoke. This is a powerful, incisive Champagne that needs time to soften. The 2002 is two-thirds Pinot Noir from Ay and one-third Chardonnay from Oger, both Grand Crus. I suggest drinking the 2003 while the 2002 ages. It isn’t likely to be going anywhere anytime soon. Dosage was 4 grams per liter. This bottled was disgorged in April 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. I tasted a wide range of fabulous wines with Charles Philipponnat this year. Over the years, the knock on Philipponnat was that few of the entry and mid-level wines were consistent in quality with the flagship Clos des Goisses, one of the true icons of Champagne. I find that much less of an issue these days. One criticism I do have with Philipponnat is with the roses, which generally are made by adding still red wine to the blanc versions of those same Champagnes. While this method, called ‘assemblage,’ is quite common in Champagne, it is much less typical of estates that aspire to make world-class Champagnes, as Philipponnat does. At most of the top houses, the roses are made as stand alone wines, in other words, conceived and executed from the bottom up as their own entities rather than based off another wine. Importers: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484; Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

(made entirely from grand cru fruit: 60% pinot noir from Ay and 40% chardonnay from Oger; disgorged May, 2009): Pale gold. Highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh citrus fruits and white flowers, with a building spiciness. Taut and linear on the palate, displaying excellent definition to its Meyer lemon, orange zest and pear flavors. Finishes with a hint of red fruits and excellent cut and spicy persistence. This energetic Champagne appears to be built to age.