2006 Barolo Riserva Gran Bussia

The 2006 Barolo Riserva Granbussia is exceedingly "Piemontese" in character. The wine follows in local tradition with a bouquet that is ethereal and fine, yet powerful and long-lasting at the same time. It is shy and reticent at first, but once it starts to open the wine seemingly never stops. There are notes of black fruit, spice, tar, licorice, pencil shaving and a touch of rusty nail. The wine shows beautiful finesse and will definitely endure a long and prosperous drinking window. The tannins show silky integration and there is an enormous push of power and persistence in the palate.

Dried roses, savory herbs, leather, anise and tobacco are some of the many notes that emerge from the 2006 Barolo Riserva Granbussia. Firm, austere yet gorgeous, the 2006 is going to require quite a bit of time to fully come together. There is an inner sweetness in the fruit and aromatics that recalls the Romirasco, while the perception of structure and acidity are those of Cicala. Dried flowers, spices and mint add the final notes of complexity. Patience will be key. The 2006 spent 60 days on the skins, followed by 44 months in cask.

(just 300 cases produced; a 70/15/15 blend of Romirasco, Colonnello and Cicala; 65 days on the skins): Good deep red. Ripe, classic Barolo aromas of black cherry, plum, menthol and mocha, plus a hint of exotic fruits; this seems more youthful on the nose than the 2009 Barolos here. Plush and broad in the mid-palate, with penetrating acidity and savory saline minerality giving the wine extraordinary grip. The great palate-staining finish features outstanding length and an exhilarating note of orange zest. Giacomo Conterno noted that there will be a Gran Bussia bottling from 2008, 2009 and 2010 but not from 2007 or 2011, explaining that Gran Bussia "needs a classic vintage." This was bottled in 2011 and will be released early next year.