2020 Arbois Savagnin Ouille

Full bottle 1,292 g. Savagnin Ouillé, sometimes called Traminer, or Fleur de Savagnin, is the topped-up version of Savagnin, one that Domaine du Pélican has been producing since 2012. In Jura, the most common use of Savagnin is for oxidative wines ( sous voile ), either  vin jaune  (which requires more than 6 years in barrel under flor), or simply Savagnin (2 to 5 years in barrel under flor). This cuvée is made of many different parcels located in Arbois and Montigny-lès-Arsures. The soils are very diverse: multi-coloured marls; limestone scree ( éboulis calcaires ) over grey marls; and marly limestone. The grapes are lightly crushed before being pressed. One-third of the crop macerates with the skins for one night before being pressed. Fermentation in foudres and barrels. Ageing is in 500-litre barrels with 20% new oak for half of the crop. The balance is in foudre. Very pale. Subtle herbal aroma, mineral/stony with a touch of barrel/oak-aged 'sweetness' on the nose, ie a sort of lees richness, and clean-cut lemon/lime citrus. As it opens up in the glass, there's an inviting smokiness, highlighting the mineral character but also an extremely delicate and unexpected peachy note on the day after opening. Complex, intense and a little bit spicy on the palate. Bone dry, beautifully fresh. No really dominant fruit flavours though there's grapefruit and lemon, plus herbs and leesy creaminess, and an incredibly long, intense, salty finish. A really fine wine. (JH)