2015 G-Max Collection (2006-2017)

Served blind and following the 2013 and 2014 vintages, the 2015 Riesling G-Max is clear, elegant, quite cool, tart and stony on the nose that is reminiscent of apricots, crushed rocks and salts. Rich and juicy as well as fresh, spicy and salty on the palate, the 2015 G-Max develops great length and reveals a classic expression, combining its intense fruit with a firm structure and persistent saltiness. This dry Riesling from very old vines remains on the palate for a very long time and still has superb aging potential. After 2002 and 2003, the 2015 is another stellar vintage for Keller's G-Max and is still very young. Tasted blind as wine number 15 of the G-Max vertical at Steinheuer's Restaurant Zur Alten Post, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, in January 2024.

Tasted blind. Is it possible to be unkind to a G-Max? Maybe if you call him untypical for his variety, because you find some aromas more similar to those of a fine Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc than a great Riesling. For sun worshippers the warm and dry summer of 2015 may have been a dream, but it would be wrong to assume that growers could just lie back too. Under these kinds of weather conditions comes a point when acidity levels begin to drop precariously rapidly and grape sugars start speeding up to heights not conducive to grace and elegance. Constant and cautious monitoring by the growers is required to determine that perfect moment when grapes have achieved a balance of constituents that will deliver optimum vibrancy, finesse and harmony in the finished wine. With the G-Max 2015 Klaus Peter Keller has achieved this aim, and although the fruit may be a tad more exotic and the texture a little creamier than in other vintages, the wine is bursting with energy and vitality. The sweet taste of passion fruit and mandarin is perfectly complemented by juicy acidity. Minerality and herbal spices set delightful accents on the long finish. (MS)

Ripe, pit-inflected peach and mirabelle are accented on the nose by smoky suggestions of peat. More typical chalkiness ensues inner-mouth, with broadly palate-saturating pit fruit flavors allied to animating (analytically over 9 grams) acidity experienced as infectiously juicy lime and grapefruit. An incisive crunch of mustard seed adds to the nearly detonative intensity and grip of this palpably extract-rich Riesling’s finish.