2009 Barolo Vigna Cicala

The aromas of crushed berries, flowers and cocoa are enticing. It's full-to-medium body, with soft tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Very refined. Better after 2015.

The 2009 Barolo Cicala reveals the particular dynamic of the vintage with firmly astringent tannins and power coupled with a leaner, more streamlined mouthfeel. You can also feel some of the heat of the 2009 summer with upfront aromas of prune and cassis followed by a visibly darker appearance and sweet spice on the bouquet. The wine has the inherent complexity, structure and acidity for long aging, but it offers less pulp to sink your teeth into. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. The landscape of Italian wine has forever changed with the passing of three of its most legendary figures. Giuseppe “Beppe” Quintarelli of Valpolicella died in early 2012, Franco Biondi Santi of Montalcino passed earlier this year and Aldo Conterno left us, at the age of 81, in May 2012. Conterno was a transformative figure for Barolo whose creativity and interest in modern winemaking techniques forever changed the region. In the 1950s, at 23 years old, he moved to California to learn about the wine trade there. He decided to complete his mandatory Italian military service in the United States and ended up serving in the U.S. Army during the Korean War. Illness meant he hadn’t been out much in public the last few years. As one producer told me, “You always felt his presence even if you didn’t always see him.” Importer: Massanois Imports, Scarsdale, NY; tel. (914) 722-9100

An aromatically beguiling wine, the 2009 Barolo Cicala is laced with dark plums, truffles, tar, incense and a host of other balsamic-infused aromas. Today, the fruit lies a bit in the background, while the wine's aromatics and overall structure are much more in evidence. I imagine the 2009 will require at least a few more years in bottle to flesh out, but it is quite beautiful, even at this stage. There is a weightless tension in the 2009 that is remarkable. (AG)