1985 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Il Greppo (2022 Release)
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Tasting notes
The fruit for the Riserva comes exclusively from the oldest vines at the estate. Aged in Slavonian oak for three years. La Storica refers to bottlings aged in the winery cellar for later release. Considered a great vintage at the estate, from a riper vintage. The colour is remarkably similar to the younger wines in this Biondi-Santi vertical. Mid garnet with a sweet nose of cherry, liquorice, incense and kirsch. The palate has the same succulent fruit but matches this with grippy, pithy tannins, cigar and an almost iron-like stony quality. Blood orange and white pepper emerge with time in the glass. This continues to open up with air but retains such an impressive fruit drive. Sinewy and very long on the finish. (TP)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
It looks like at some stage the B-S wines just don't lose colour any further. This is a little more developed than the 2015 Riserva (with which it was tasted) but not by much. Deep balsamic nose with hints of dried cherry and with aeration perfumed fruit. Really deep and a little mysterious. Spice and hints of orange skin. Keeps on evolving and changing in the glass. Truly multi-layered and with the classic Biondi-Santi waxy cherry fruit. Vibrant acidity and then gorgeous cool cherry. Waxy hints and fantastic fine long tannins. (WS)
It’s almost impossible to imagine that the 1985 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva La Storica has just celebrated its thirty-sixth birthday. It displays a brilliant ruby red color and amazing clarity in the glass, with only the slightest bricking around the rim. The bouquet alone is enough to keep you at the edge of your seat, as if opening a cedar treasure box to find dusty rose and sour cherry offset by spiced orange, crushed dried sage and just the slightest hint of animal musk. This is total class, cool-toned and poised, seeming to hover across the palate with an air of red inner florals, as tart woodland berries mix with hints of black tea and lemon oils. There’s a bolt of nervous acidity that keeps the experience remarkably fresh, but also adds a highly attractive sweet and sour note. And finally, while structured and youthful in feel, it finishes completely fresh, vibrant even, with dried currants enlivened by nuances of grapefruit and mint that linger on and on. This is an experience wine in every sense of the word, hailing from a dry and warm harvest yet exemplifying the purity of Sangiovese, as well as its ability to mature for well over three decades. The 1985 La Storica comes directly from the winery’s aging vault, and it was reconditioned with a new cork in 2000.
Another revered Montalcino traditionalist. Dark ruby. Scented and ethereal. Great transparency. Correct and at its peak. (JR)