2010 Toscana Sangiovese

This is the vintage of which almost all ended up on the floor of the winery when a disgruntled employee opened the taps on the vats in Gianfranco Soldera's carefully designed cellar. It will never be offered on the open market. Instead the idea is to sell it exclusively in large formats in aid of children's charities, (Two magnums went for £40,000 each at the 2017 Room to Read London wine gala.) The wine was poured from a double magnum in London at Harry's Bar at another charity auction organised by Soldera's UK importer Zubair Mohamed. A very substantial six-figure sum was raised by Sotheby's auctioneer Stephen Mould from just six large-format bottles. Deep, rich ruby. This wine just leapt out of the glass – so pure and fresh yet so rich at the same time, Exceptional life in here, it almost vibrates in the glass. I was reminded of my description of these wines as 'health juice' and this seemed even more impressive and concentrated than the 2013. There's a real edge to this magical wine that truly does seem to taste of pure grape. Sui genesis . (JR)