2017 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett 06 18
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Tasting notes
Seldom have I observed such a striking difference between a youthful Prüm Kabinett from Graacher Himmelreich and one from Wehlener Sonnenuhr as in this vintage. Heady honeysuckle and gardenia are accompanied on the nose by very ripe pear and Persian melon, anticipating the inner-mouth perfume and lush fruit that deploy on a glossy, buoyant palate. Pear seed piquancy serves for welcome counterpoint on a finish that is luscious, rounded and highly imposing, if lacking the brightness or energy conveyed at this stage by the corresponding Graacher. But give it at least a little time.
Critic scores
James Suckling
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Beautifully cool limes and peaches with some fresh herbs and very fresh, flinty notes, as well as sliced green mangoes. Delicious! The palate has such impeccable balance and has tautness to it that is so engaging. Long, seamlessly refreshing flavors of limes and green-apple sorbet and a fresh, zippy finish. Drink over the next decade or more.
The 2017 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is bright, intense and flinty on the quite deep and mineral nose. This is a round, lush and generous Kabinett with a charming sweetness, filigreed generosity and some reductive notes. Bottled with 9% alcohol. Tasted from AP 2 18 in July 2019.
The 2017 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett is clear and bright on the nose, with ripe and intense but still discreet fruit aromas that intertwine perfectly with the slatey notes of the Sonnenuhr. On the palate, this is a mouth-filling, lush, creamy, salty-piquant, straight and pretty firm yet stimulating Kabinett with grip and tension on the finish. For now, I prefer the Graacher, but the Wehlener will surely develop and merit an even better score in a couple of years. Tasted in March 2019.
About the producer
Joh. Jos. Prüm is the benchmark estate of the Middle Mosel, renowned for Rieslings of exceptional delicacy, precision, and longevity. From the legendary slopes of Wehlener Sonnenuhr to Graacher Himmelreich, their wines capture a singular balance of lightness, tension and mineral purity.