2015 Pivot Pinot Noir

Ted Lemon says 2015, like 2005, was another year of very low yields. “We don’t think of the Pivot as being a tannic site, but that relates back to freakishly low yields in 2015,” he explains. This bottle of the 2015 Pinot Noir The Pivot Vineyard seems overly mature with tertiary aromas of dried berries, mushrooms, tea leaves and leather. Its ripe, dense flavors are matched by slightly rustic tannins, and it has just enough acidity to refresh its earthy finish. Other bottles may have aged more gracefully.

Sits at 500 ft of elevation on a south-facing slope between Sebastopol and Freestone on Goldridge loam, a sandy clay loam, over marine-sandstone parent material. Planted in 2004, this site is farmed using organic and biodynamic methods but is not certified. Free-run juice from a combination of destemmed fruit and roughly 30% whole clusters ferments with ambient yeasts in a combination of steel and wood, utilising both punchdowns and pumpovers, with the wines pressed at dryness. Aged for 14–17 months in 20–25% new French oak on the lees with no racking. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. 334 cases produced. Aromas of red miso, raspberries, cedar and a hint of meatiness. Fleecy tannins wrap around a core of cherry and black-cherry flavours with a hint of smoked meat and a faint salinity. Floral notes emerge in the finish. Excellent acidity. Darker and a little mysterious, but no less delicious. (AY)

Elegant, silky and seamless, a smooth melange of red and black fruits, subtle spices and a particularly caressing texture on the medium body. So graceful, subtle and long, offering black cherries, sour cherries, black tea, star anise and a touch of toasted cedar. Drink now. Littorai retrospective tasting May 2025.