2014 Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos

18 months in oak, very little new and then six months or longer in tank. Little sister of La Dioterie. 40-year-old vines, clay and limestone on top of the slope and sandy at the bottom. North facing. Deep bright crimson. More peppery and rocky than the Charmes and a finely fresh capsicum note – without any unripeness in this excellent vintage. Compact but powder-fine texture. More dark and savoury on the nose and really refined even at this young stage. Mouth-watering finish even with so much ripe fruit. (JH)