2015 Corton Charlemagne

(13.7% alcohol): Pale yellow. Profound aromas of lemon, lime and crushed rock. Ineffably silky on entry, then tightly coiled and pungently mineral in the middle palate, conveying an impression of great density without weight. No sign of hot-vintage character here! The endless crushed-rock finish conveys a powerful sense of solidity and the structure of a red wine. Raphael Coche likes this best among his 2015s for its balance but will probably hold it back for a much later release. He noted that the family's 2010 Corton-Charlemagne will be released in September, adding that the 2015 version is totally different in style but close in quality.