1998 Rioja Reserva
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The 1998 Reserva was diminished a bit by late harvest rainfall. Even so, it is an elegant, savory, complex wine that has good depth and concentration. It should drink nicely for another decade. Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza is one of Rioja’s benchmark estates. It encompasses about 132 acres located in four regions of Alava Rioja planted to approximately 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. The winery itself is located in the village of Samaniego. Upon my arrival at the Bodega in May 2010, I discovered a surprise. In addition to a vertical tasting of all the Reservas, Senor Remirez had prepared a similar vertical of Trasnocho, a wine that has never been exported to the USA. With all due respect, the greatest vintages from Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza in my opinion are 2004 and 2001. Trasnocho is Fernando Remirez de Ganuza’s take on a more contemporary style. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767
Critic scores
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Jay S Miller, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Bright medium ruby. Distinctly sauvage, sweaty aromas of raspberry, leather and roasted meat; this may be a bit too rude for the fainthearted. Then chewy, dense and deep, with outstanding intensity of flavor and great inner-mouth lift. Distinctly wild-verging-on-rustic but cleaner and more deeply fruity than the nose suggests. Finishes long and leathery, with a touch of youthful austerity. Seems a bit less superconcentrated than the '96, but this is a Rioja of great individuality.