2003 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva
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Tasting notes
A smoky note of cracked ashen stone gives way to a cedar spice box full of dried berries, citrus peels, cloves, cinnamon and roses as the sweetly spiced bouquet of the 2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Vecchie Vigne bursts from the glass. There’s an unexpected density and pliancy here, coming across as soft-natured and fully mature, with notes of ripe plum and tobacco settling upon the senses. The 2003 finishes with a pleasant grip, the result of residual acids more than tannin, while cherry pits and even sour melon notes slowly fade. While I don’t see the 2003 maturing in a positive direction from here, there’s so much pleasure to be found today, and there’s no rush to finish the bottles in your cellar.
Critic scores
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Pepe's 2003 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a bomb. Tar, leather, scorched earth and black fruit emerge from this dark, imposing Montepulciano. The wine comes together beautifully in the glass, as the aromas and flavors gain breadth and dimension. Despite the rich style, there is nothing excessive or over-ripe here, just exceptional balance of ripe fruit as captured by a traditional approach to vinification. A final blast of tar informs the long finish. Pepe fans will flip over the 2003, but readers who prefer subtlety over power will want to cellar this for a few years to allow for some of the baby fat to melt away.
Pepe’s 2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a bomb. Tar, leather, scorched earth and black fruit emerge from this dark, imposing Montepulciano. The wine comes together beautifully in the glass, as the aromas and flavors gain breadth and dimension. Despite the rich style, there is nothing excessive or over-ripe here, just exceptional balance of ripe fruit as captured by a traditional approach to vinification. A final blast of tar informs the long finish. Pepe fans will flip over the 2003, but readers who prefer subtlety over power will want to cellar this for a few years to allow for some of the baby fat to melt away. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. Emidio Pepe is one of Abruzzo’s reference-point producers. These traditionally made wines can show some rough edges when they are young, but they rarely disappoint when given an opportunity to mature in the cellar. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404
Pepe’s 2003 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a bomb. Tar, leather, scorched earth and black fruit emerge from this dark, imposing Montepulciano. The wine comes together beautifully in the glass, as the aromas and flavors gain breadth and dimension. Despite the rich style, there is nothing excessive or over-ripe here, just exceptional balance of ripe fruit as captured by a traditional approach to vinification. A final blast of tar informs the long finish. Pepe fans will flip over the 2003, but readers who prefer subtlety over power will want to cellar this for a few years to allow for some of the baby fat to melt away. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. Jun 2010, www.robertparker.com
About the producer
Emidio Pepe is a star of the Abruzzo region and one of Italy’s most famous names. Worshipped by natural-wine lovers for its low-intervention approach, this estate makes category-defying, age-worthy examples of Montepulciano, Trebbiano and Cerasolo d’Abruzzo, as well as Pecorino Colli Aprutini.