2004 Barca Velha

26,068 numbered bottles produced in this vintage. 35% Touriga Nacional, 40% Touriga Franca, 10% Tinta Roriz, 5% Tinto Cão – from vineyards in the Douro Superior – most importantly, from both higher and lower elevations. Aged in 225-litre French oak, 75% new. The label is taken from a tapestry from Ferreira and different parts of it are used each year.  Released 2012. Deep dark crimson with as yet little colour evolution. Beautifully fragrant and complex, especially as it opens – there's sweetness and spice, floral and dried ftuit – dried cherry. So elegant in its structure – refined and cool. Then there is just a hint of maturity on the palate – autumnal – overall surprisingly delicate and still persistent. Changes all the time in the glass. Supple but stil very young – just at the beginning of its drinking window and much, much more to come. A perfect match with the venison but would also be good with less intense meat flavours. (JH)