2011 Gevrey Chambertin Cazetiers

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru les Cazetiers 2011 has a slightly over-extracted bouquet with animal, rather chocolaty black fruit that does not exude the essence of Burgundy. The palate is dense and sinewy, very good depth, but it lacks finesse and sophistication on the labored, rather savory finish. It does offer some sensory pleasure, but it is not such an intellectual proposition.

The 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers stands out for its hushed, laid-back personality and sense of inner strength. Wild flowers, spices, mint and licorice meld together in a supple Burgundy that is only showing a bit of its true potential. Here, too, the style is built on class and polish. The crystalline finish is remarkably finessed, but it will be some years before the Cazetiers is fully expressive. This has really come together in bottle nicely.

Good bright red. At once deeper and higher-pitched on the nose than the Champeaux, with cherry fruit complicated by menthol and crushed stone. Suave and bright but reticent, with brisk minerality intensifying the dark fruit and floral flavors. Best today on the juicy, palate-saturating, slowly rising, fairly tannic finish. Like the Champeaux, this really needs at least two or three years of patience.