2007 Volnay Santenots

Intense aromas and flavors of cassis and creme de mure are complemented by mace and espresso in a Lafon 2007 Volnay Santenots du Milieu whose almost liqueur-like sense of richness carries through to a strong finish, while not precluding a sense of fresh fruit vivacity that is reinforced by pungent brown spices. This fine representative of its vintage and site should be worth cellaring for 5-7 years. Dominique Lafon’s vineyards were hit hard by the July, 2008 hail, with his largest site – Santenots du Milieu – worst hit, and reduced in production by two-thirds, all of which he bottled together, rather than (as more usually) declassifying the young vines portion to village Volnay. Crop loss was due to dehydration as well, a factor compounded by late harvest. (“But before October,” relates Lafon, “the fruit simply was not ripe.”) Lafon’s chagrin – coming on the heels of two challenging vintages for Pinot – was more than assuaged, though, by the superb quality of his Meursaults in both 2007 and 2008 (on which I shall report soon in these pages). A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040

Deep red. The most perfumed of these 2007s, offering aromas of black cherry, licorice, violet and minerals. Lush, sweet and seamless, with complex flavors of cherry and flowers along with a whiff of game. This really coats the mouth and builds, finishing with suave tannins and lingering perfume. Has the stuffing to age but also offers early accessibility. This was tight from barrel and has unfurled nicely.