1996 Volnay Santenots
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Tasting notes
Lafon's 1996 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu is beginning to drink well, especially if it's given a bit of air. Offering up aromas of plums, dark berries, grilled squab, vine smoke and a vestigial touch of toasty new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with attractive of mid-palate plenitude that's framed by somewhat chalky, firm tannins typical both of the vintage and the extraction regimen at this estate in this period.
Critic scores
Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
Though this has always had a wonderfully sweet red and black fruit and still does, the aromas are beginning to take on subtle secondary notes. The middle weight flavors are delicious, pure, edgy and possess evident breed though the finish is a bit short as the acidity has begun to become much more evident. While this should be capable of living for years, I would be inclined to be drinking it over the next 5 years or so as the finish risks drying out as the acidity is no longer subtle if not actually intrusive or harsh. Consistent notes.
This is one of Dominique Lafon’s best wines of the 1990s and easily surpasses the 1995. It has a wonderful bouquet that is very focused: raspberry, a touch of cassis, Indian ink and just a suggestion of singed leather. It has a sweet entry on the palate that is underpinned by fine tannins and an elegant, sensual finish that lacquers but never oppresses the mouth. There is wonderful tension and purity in this Volnay, perhaps in some ways auguring the style of wine post-2000. You can drink this now, though I would prefer to leave the 1996 another five years because there is a lot to come. Drink now-2026. Tasted September 2013. Dec 2013, www.robertparker.com