2004 Rioja Reserva

The 2004 Reserva, according to Remirez is “?a great vintage, a lot of nerve, like 1994, that needed a long aging period”. Opaque purple in color, it offers up a splendid bouquet of sandalwood, incense, Asian spices, balsamic, and black cherry. Layered, opulent, and impeccably balanced, it is a monumental effort. Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza is one of Rioja’s benchmark estates. It encompasses about 132 acres located in four regions of Alava Rioja planted to approximately 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. The winery itself is located in the village of Samaniego. Upon my arrival at the Bodega in May 2010, I discovered a surprise. In addition to a vertical tasting of all the Reservas, Senor Remirez had prepared a similar vertical of Trasnocho, a wine that has never been exported to the USA. With all due respect, the greatest vintages from Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza in my opinion are 2004 and 2001. Trasnocho is Fernando Remirez de Ganuza’s take on a more contemporary style. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2004 Fincas de Ganuza Reserva is composed of 90% Tempranillo and10% Graciano both from old vines. It is aged for 25 months in 50% new French and American oak before bottling without fining or filtration. A glass-coating opaque purple, the aromatic array includes earth notes, mineral, incense, black cherry, and blackberry. This leads to a mouth-filling, intensely flavored wine with good grip, excellent depth, and enough structure to evolve for several more years. This lengthy effort will deliver prime drinking from 2011 to 2019. One of Rioja’s finest estates, Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza makes a “second” label with a relationship to the top wine not unlike Les Forts de Latour to Latour. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Delicately but noticeably floral: sweet smoky violet aromas and fresh cassis and blueberry fruit. Very nuanced and subtle on the nose. On the palate, elegant and fresh, restrained but persistent with vanilla and black fruit across the mid palate. (JH)