1997 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

Disgorged March 2007. Charles Philipponnat described this as both 'crisper and more oxidative' than the 1980 served alongside. This was the wine I found most puzzling. Although the acidity was marked and there was a slight herbal note, the wine as a whole was broad and honeyed on the nose and palate, appearing much more developed than many of the older vintages. This breadth and oxidative character became more pronounced in the glass. Philipponnat suggested this might be because no oak was used in 1997. The then new owners thought the older foudres were not up to scratch and decided not to use, making this is the only vintage of Clos des Goisses with no oak influence and therefore no oak tannins to protect the wine from oxidation. (JH)