2002 Urziger Wurzgarten Auslese (1 Star)

Christoffel’s 2002 Riesling Auslese Urziger Wurzgarten *** could easily merit 2-3 points more if its finish harmonizes and fills out with cellaring, that’s how spectacular this wine’s nose and attack are! The aromas of a myriad flowers, perfumes, kiwis, limes, and spices explode from the glass. On the palate, this big, concentrated, plush, super-rich effort stuns the taster with its waves of pulp-packed pears and apples. Ginger, candied minerals, and exotic fruits are also found in the complex depths of this show-stopper. It has stunning clarity of fruit, particularly given its richness, yet its finish needs time to come together. Projected maturity: 2025-2035. All of Weingut Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben’s wines revealed relatively high levels of CO2 (a natural by-product of fermentation that disappears with time). Readers who find this trait unpleasant should wait 1-2 years before opening any of this estate’s 2002s. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Apple and strawberry jelly aromas. The same lightly cooked, jellied fruit impression is confirmed on the palate, along with a wet stone slate character and hints of brown spices and white raisin. For all of its ripeness, this exhibits great delicacy. Strawberry, sweetly aromatic herbs, lime and wet stone in the finish, which grew in clarity and intensity as the wine developed in the open glass. Potential 2 stars.

Fuller and richer than the one-star Auslese but much more reticent. Spicy with good texture. Lots of fruit and unusual reverberation on the finish. (JR)