1992 Bollinger Grande Annee

Rainy summer with relatively high temperatures led to botrytris, resulting in lower yields and the need for careful sorting, but at least there was no loss due to frost in this vintage. 70% of the grapes come from Bollinger’s own vineyard. 65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. 16 crus, with 83% grands crus and 17% premiers crus. Mainly from Aÿ, Bouzy, Tauxières, Verzenay, Cuis, Grauves, Oger and Chouilly. Cuvée only, fermented in oak casks (at least four years old, 225-400 litre). Aged on lees under cork for at least five years. Dosage 7-9 g/l. Disgorged 2003. TA 5.3 g/l (sulphuric), pH 3.05. The magnums poured at this tasting were taken from the private cellar of cellar master Gilles Descôtes because the ones destined for this London tasting (disgorged 2016) ended up in Korea. Smells soft (if you can smell softness), creamy and honeyed on the nose, toasty and caressing on the palate. A light note of mushrooms, opening up to a rather nice delicate note of char but the whole is still indubitably fresh. Intensity and power build in the mouth and the mousse is still surprisingly lively. With roast chicken, it seemed fresher still and showed some crystallised lemon on the finish, baked apple and spice. (JH)