2005 Corton Bressandes

The 2005 Corton Bressandes displays positively peachy, generically-ripe aromas (pushing 14% alcohol, which is the maximum here this vintage, eventually generating a faint bit of warmth) and with notes of cedar and a slightly funky gaminess behind that. It comes onto the palate with a certain roughness of tannin, though with persistently sweet fruit that takes on more Pinot-typical berry character and a broad, beefy richness. This big-boned, undeniably dense wine was only bottled for a week when I tasted which may account for some of its roughness and awkwardness, but I wonder also about the premature gaminess. Also recommended: 2005 Volnay Caillerets ($104.00; 86+?). In the decade since the ambitious and conscientious Patrick Landanger (who just bought an estate in the Douro, whence he was headed the Sunday we met) purchased Pousse d’Or, he has expanded the holdings to include parcels in Corton and Puligny Caillerets, and made huge investments in the vineyards and cellar. Not surprisingly given nature’s role, the 2005s – which he called unproblematic in every respect – look to set new quality standards for his tenure. Landanger says he was very sparing with punch-downs this year and entirely eschews pump-overs because he never pumps (and thus doesn’t filter either). The wines had just been bottled, and a couple of them appeared to be laboring under the effects of this (or at least of the sulfur administered beforehand). Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Good medium red. Captivating, nuanced nose combines cherry, rose petal, blood orange and an exotic suggestion of white fruits that Landanger says is characteristic of this grand cru. Fat, chewy and sweet, but also quite suave thanks to its vinosity and structure. This builds impressively toward the back and displays impressive length and grip.