2011 Chevalier Montrachet

The 2011 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an understated bouquet that demands coaxing from the glass, but with a little encouragement it gives up lovely nectarine and white peach scents. Still, the aromatics give out the message that it needs three or four years in bottle. The palate is very precise and wonderfully balanced, perfectly judged acidity and extremely well-focused. It has a vibrant, sorbet-fresh finish that simply dances about the mouth with merry abandon. This is exquisite and encapsulates everything a Chevalier-Montrachet should be. Following last issue’s “amuse bouche,” I could not miss an opportunity to visit Pierre-Yves at his winery in the village of Chassagne to take a look at his 2011s. “I like the 2011s because they give a lot of pleasure when they are young,” he said to me. “But I think they could age very well. The wines are on the ripe side – a bit like 2001 or maybe 2002. But I think it is a complete vintage. Personally, I prefer 2010 which is more on the mineral side, but the 2011s appeal to a wider audience, and in a way, bring people to Burgundy. When the customers come to the estate, they seem to have never heard about the 2011 vintage and so they do not know what to expect. But when they taste them they were quite easy to sell.” Pierre-Yves 2011s do not disappoint, mostly imbued with the delineation and poise we have come to expect from this top-tier producer who demonstrates that you do not necessarily have to own all your vines to create exceptional wines. We briefly discussed his move away from new oak and he admitted that perhaps during his initial vintages he was trying to impress. That is only natural. He has retreated from the cooperage to employ a minimal amount of new wood and things are about to change again. He had just taken delivery of two 11-hectolitre wooden troconic tanks that he will trial with the 2013 vintage, probably on one of the St. Aubin wines such as En Remilly. I cannot wait to taste the results. The Chassagne-Montrachets underwent a longer elevage than the St. Aubins and were bottled two months prior to my visit in July 2013. Importer: Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 343-4054

One 350-litre barrel. He buys by multiples of 18 cases of fruit = 350 litres. Very calcaire. And in 2011 those soils gave quite rich wines. Very rich but not as aerienne as a typical Chevalier. Quite broad and rich. Lots of sweetness and forward. Broad and big and brawny. Powerful! (JR)