1998 Shiraz Block 6
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Tasting notes
Made from 106-year-old Shiraz vines, this 1998 was perplexing to taste. It is still dense purple-colored, but high in tannin, with the fruit buried beneath a strict, almost austere, tannic structure. Most of the tasters felt it could be drying out, but neither the color nor youthfulness of the fruit suggested that. Nevertheless, the possibility remains that the tannins are just too elevated for the wine’s concentration. Is it an awkward, somewhat disjointed wine that may be past its prime?
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 1998 Kay Brothers Shiraz Block 6 Amery Vineyards is one massive wine. The almost black, completely opaque color is followed up by black cherry, licorice, charred wood, smoke and bittersweet chocolate. Still young and actually fairly tight with amazingly rich fruit, no evidence of oak and just massive structure. The palate is powerful yet balanced, deep and long. Outstanding.
Impressively saturated ruby. Port-like aromas of roasted black fruits, bitter chocolate and violet, along with a whiff of bourbon. A wine of headspinning power, density and concentration, just short of over the top. Extremely rich flavors of cassis, leather, tar and pepper. Ultimately more complex than the Hillside bottling but also a bit warmer today. Finishes with palate-staining persistence and velvety tannins. Highly recommended for fans of outsized shiraz. The Kay Brothers wines appear to possess the sheer stuffing to age, but I'd still recommend drinking them on the early side before their high alcohol overwhelms the wonderfully lush fruit.