2002 Rudesheimer Kirchenpfad Trockenbeerenauslese

I was befuddled by Leitz’s 2002 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Rudesheimer Kirchenpfad. Its rich aromas are reminiscent of stones, yogurt, and candied onions. On the palate, there is no questioning this medium-bodied effort’s hedonistic, oily-textured, lush qualities. However, I was put-off by flavors that were dominated by scallions and by its abrupt, dusty botrytis-crammed finish. Feb 2004, www.robertparker.com

(for 375 ml.) Leitz left significant acreage shrouded in anticipation of Eiswein, but it was not cold enough and in the end he attempted to make a virtue of necessity, picking in two selections - this TBA and a BA - what had been trapped under the plastic film. The nose signals a concentrate of tropical fruits and white raisins and the palate certainly delivers on that promise. Fat and viscous, polished and smooth, this wine exhibits more purity and better balance of its enormous sweetness than the corresponding Beerenauslese. There is a tiny nip like horseradish seeming to signify the grapes' brush with Jack Frost, but the finish of caramelized peach, white raisin and tropical fruits certainly puts the "T" in Trockenbeerenauslese. 1 star.