1998 Clos l'Eglise (Cotes de Castillon)
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Tasting notes
The 1998 Clos l’Eglise has an attractive bouquet with melted, brambly red berry fruit laced with undergrowth, black truffle and mint. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a sprinkling of white pepper and clove towards the finish. This has held up well, with admirable density; although after 23 years, it undeniably lacks the refinement compared to recent vintages. Tasted at the Clos l’Eglise vertical.
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Robert Parker
More reviews and scores
Firing on all cylinders, the 1998 Clos L'Eglise is upfront and sexy, with mature aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, truffle, chocolate, cigar tobacco, and loamy earth. A full-bodied, seamless, and elegant wine, it's not massively concentrated yet has plenty of power and richness, is perfectly balanced, and has great tannins. Along with the 2000, 2009, 2010, and 2016, it's one of the greatest wines in the lineup and is a magical Pomerol. It's fully mature and drinking at point, and while I would enjoy bottles sooner rather than later, it's going to continue evolving gracefully.
The 1998 Clos l’Eglise was a wine feted by Robert Parker on release although I would suggest his drinking window was a little short. It still has a youthful bouquet that belies its 20-years of age: copious black cherries, blueberry and minerals, floral scents developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin. Perhaps here the winemaking at that time tells, the tannins a little chunky and perhaps lacking a little finesse compared to recent vintages. This is a Pomerol of substance and it just needs more precision on the finish. Still, this is a commendable performance and I am intrigued to see how it ages over the next 10 years. Tasted at the château.