What is your reaction when you walk into a wine store that is noticeably warm, even hot? Mine is to turn around and walk out. Here's my rationale:
- If the merchant cannot be bothered to take care of wine in its possession, it probably also didn't pay attention to how the wine was handled in the distribution channels prior to delivery.
- Merchants will argue that in-store bottles turn over rapidly so the higher store temperatures will not have much impact on the quality of the wine. But how does the buyer know how long the wine has been sitting (or standing!) there? Fine wines also don't tend to fly off the shelves.
- The negative impact of high store temperatures is a function of how warm the store is (see story below).
- Even when a store in a warm weather climate is cooled, what happens to store temperatures after closing when the A/C is turned off?
My recent experience in Italy
I just returned yesterday from a vacation in Florence (which in July is hot -- highs of 35+ degrees C or 95+ degrees F). Yet, not a single wine store I entered was air-conditioned despite carrying some very expensive wines. Needless to say, I didn't buy anything.
The one notable exception that I found was in Lucca, Italy (an hour away) where a wonderful shop called Enoteca Vanni had an extensive selection of older Italian vintages mostly housed underground in a network of low-ceilinged, passive cellars.
Bottom line: The condition in which wine is stored is merely one of many criteria which should be considered in where you buy wine (see Criteria for selecting a good wine retailer).
P.S. See also Wine storage temperature's impact on aging.
P.P.S. This story was inspired by a recent article on Decanter.com titled "Top stores keep wine too warm" which reviews the situation in the UK.
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