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It honestly amazes me how so many wines get left in the lurch because of the most inane reasons: 1) funny label, 2) scored below 90, 3) obscure country, 4) weird name, 5) customers are afraid to ask questions, etc. What amuses and confuses me most (in a sad, pitying sort of way) are the absolute tons of wines out there that languish on shelves and in floor stacks because someone - be it the salesperson or the client - didn't have the presence of mind to make a left instead of a right.  Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of times that I've grabbed a bottle, willing it to be the next "American Idol" of the "under-$20" contingent and been sorely and unrelentingly abused. But that doesn't mean I don’t ever take the plunge again! Part of the intrigue and greatness of wine is the fact that time and time again - despite some swing-and-misses - the overall sense that I get is that there are more and more quality wines being made that do not sacrifice the buyer to mediocrity. With that in mind, I would like to introduce a few of the misunderstood players of the "square peg in the round hole" posse.

2003 Raventos i Blanc – Cava Gran Reserva (WA 91, $35): OK. Most people think of Cava as the demon spawn of sparklers, maybe because for the longest time the frosted Hades-black Freixenet bottle dominated the market. Though, to give it its due, it's not that bad…I think Cook's or Tott's takes that 'prize.' Back to the aforementioned wine...this is going to make you a believer in the power that 'un'-Champagne grapes CAN make superb bubbles. Xarel-lo, Macabeo and Parellada - the heavenly trio of Cava grapes - join the ranks of a small amount of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Rocher des Violettes Montlouis: There are two dry options here - "La Negrette" (VF 93, $24) and "Touche-Mitaine" (VF 91, $17), both of which will go far in demonstrating that it is not only Sancerre that is Loire Valley royalty. This is Chenin Blanc at its shiny, happy best. Xavier WEISSKOPF went to school in Chablis and Beaune, trained with Louis Barroul at Saint Cosme and is set to make this 22-acre property the gem of Montlouis. These are substantial, dry Chenin Blancs capable of satisfying the most particular of white wine lovers, and will rival the stars of Vouvray, just across the river.

Henschke Semillon "Louis" (IWC 90, $18.95): Another grape that seems to get lost in the fray the moment it steps out of Bordeaux is Semillon. We drink Chardonnay from oodles of regions, Cabernet, too. Even Malbec and Grenache. What did this poor little white grape do to deserve this disrespect? So, join the SSB (Semillon Support Brigade) and swipe up a bottle of this lovely Australian version. And keep an eye out for more of this grape - mono and in blends - from South Africa and New Zealand, too.

CHANGE...is that a four-letter word, or what?! Sometimes the best change is one that is forced upon us (famous words of wisdom from my maternal unit.) Sometimes it's sly and weasels its way into the fabric of our life and all of a sudden "Wham!", we’ve got a new way of looking at or thinking of things. So it goes in the wine world. It's a many-forked path and I find that summer is the best time to be easy and breezy and just let 'change' be our friend.

In my case, it's finding all the weird, ethnically or varietally-challenged wines that nobody even gives the slightest of nods to when passing them down the aisle. But thrust one of these tasty whites, reds or rosés into an unassuming individual's hands and they will be amazed. Having just celebrated the 4th and anticipating some warmer BBQ and patio-slouching weather, here are a few favorites that will 'change' your views on summer sippers. Trust me; I’m a wine expert... ;)

2006 Bolgnani Moscato Giallo, Trentino - Italy

2007 Pampelonne Rosé, Provence - France (VF 92, $16) 

2006 Amisfield Pinot Gris, Central Otago - New Zealand (VF 91, $21)

2007 Cabriz Colheita Seleccionada Branco, Douro – Portugal ($11) : OMG! I just bought a case after tasting this. Definitely THE white of summer and will launch the word ‘change’ into the same glorious stratosphere as “Choo” or “Blahnik” does in the shoe world…with nary a pinch to your pocketbook!

2006 Valentin Bianchi Malbec "Famiglia Bianchi", Mendoza – Argentina (IWC 89, $16)

2003 Ligneres "Les Vals Rouge", Corbieres – France (VF 91, $21)

2005 Greppi 'Greppicante', Tuscany – Italy (VF 92, $24)

Some of the most affordable Syrah of excellent quality in the world comes from the finest producers of red Crozes-Hermitage in the Northern Rhone.  Yes, there are lesser Crozes but I am talking the likes of Graillot, Delas-Freres, Belle, Chapoutier, Jaboulet, and Colombier to name a few.  I pulled corks on two wines to show some friends “why” this past weekend and raised more than a few eyebrows. I watched the rest of these bottles walk out the door with a smiling request to work on more Rhone for them (I never seem to do as well on these “trades”).  Crozes-Hermitage sits on the eastern bank of the Rhone enveloping Hermitage.  As expected, Crozes is much the little brother to Hermitage but shows the classic medium to full body of Syrah with smoky, peppery, cassis, black cherry, plums, and the signature aroma of herbes de Provence.  Pair Crozes with fuller bodied meat dishes so that the wine doesn’t overpower your meal.  

2003 Delas Freres Crozes-Hermitage le Clos    $29
Opaque color, more fruit driven with gobs of black cherries, plum, earth, lavender and rosemary. Very good concentration and mid-palate with moderate structure.

2005 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage     $27
Opaque color, classic Graillot; this wine is bulletproof.  I double decanted (into the decanter and back into the bottle) the day before.  This is a very complete and powerful wine and it’s just a baby.  Smoke, leather, minerals, scrub, spice, jerky, and cassis. Very compact on the palate.  Needs time.

Click here for a link to Vinfolio's current selection of Crozes-Hermitage

It's amazing how certain wines continue to resonate many months after tasting them.  People, like wine, also leave an indelible mark on memory, and when an experience includes both memorable people and wine, it is all the more unforgettable. Such was the case when I visited Chiara Boschis, owner and winemaker of the Azienda Agricola E. PIRA & Figli estate in Piedmont, and tasted her 2003 and 2004 Barolo Cannubi.

Last October Chiara was kind enough to spend the day with me at the Borgogno and E. Pira estate.  I remember the excitement and passion in her voice as she spoke about her family's history, her personal story and approach to winemaking. Her fervor is clearly reflected in the quality of her 2003 and 2004 Barolo Cannubi wines. Bypassing traditional winemaking with which the Borgogno name is synonymous, Chiara is part of a group of young winemakers responsible for making Barolo internationally popular by employing modern winemaking, technology, and marketing. This group of modernists is often referred to as the "Barolo Boys." As Chiara is the only female participant, she is known as the "Barolo Girl."

Although recently there has been an increase in the number of female winemakers in Barolo, Chiara is still the "Barolo Girl" who single-handedly operates the E. Pira estate.  She oversees everything from vineyard management, winemaking, and bottling, to marketing. As glamorous as that may sound, being the owner/winemaker of your own estate, and the daughter of the Boschis family, is hard work. It requires dedication and sacrifice; there is little time for vacation during the growing season because every day is important. Chiara is there every moment, watching the vineyard out of her bedroom window, with barriques filling an area most would consider her living room. A petite woman, perhaps 5'4" at most, it is hard to picture her getting dirty and lugging barrels around, but she does it...happily, seriously, and with a great sense of humor, too. She jokingly referred to her climate-control system in her barrel ageing room as Obi-Wan "Cannubi." The device looked more like R2-D2, but still, the reference was funny.

If you meet Chiara Boschis in person, you will find that she not only funny, but also confident, charming, and ambitious. She is an amazing person who, like her wines, will leave a lasting impression. I highly recommend picking up any of Chiara's selections: Barolo Cannubi, Barolo Via Nuova, Barbera d'Alba, or Dolcetto d'Alba. You will not be disappointed. Featured below are two vintages of E. Pira Barolo Cannubi, of which annual production stands at a mere 650 cases.

The 2003 Barolo Cannubi E. Pira is an extraordinary wine for such a warm vintage. It is structured with a floral nose, has ripe, cherry and plum fruit complimented by sweet spice nuances, and firm tannins not found in many 2003s. This wine is quite accessible now, but will benefit from additional bottle ageing.

The 2004 Barolo Cannubi E. Pira, like the 2003, is superb. It has everything you would want in a great bottle of Barolo: musky aromas, rich layered fruit, and notes of mint and eucalyptus, among other spices. For the boldness and depth of this wine, it is balanced, elegant and filled with subtle nuances that reflect the terroir of the Cannubi vineyard.  The finish is long-lasting and suggests that the wine will surely improve with several years' ageing.

2003 Pira, Enrico e Figli - Barolo Cannubi (WA 90, WS 90,  IWC 87) $59.95        
 
2004 Pira, Enrico e Figli - Barolo Cannubi  (WA 95, IWC 87) $83 / 750 ml or $197 / 1.5L

As my husband, who hails from Southern France, put up a new awning in our back garden to provide some much needed shade from the heat, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to open a rosé with dinner that reminded him of home. Since I had recently raided the Vinfolio wine store to stock up on my favorite summer whites and rosés, we thought we’d do a little taste test. I found a spicy crab and preserved lemon pasta dish in the recent issue of Gourmet.  It has some bold elements which call for a rosé with character and a little more weight, so we decided to test the three rosés I had brought home to see which paired best.

The wines:

2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Beaux de Provence Rosé ($9.94 on sale)
Discreet nose of red fruits with a hint of floral, lively acidity and a delicate dry finish. This wine was more enjoyable on its own as a refreshing pre-dinner sipper. It had a hard time holding up to the Asian spice in the sauce and showing its own throughout the dish.

2006 Mourgues du Gres Les Galets Rosés, Costieres de Nimes, VF 90 ($9.50 on sale)
Deep rose color with bright cherry and red fruits on the nose – very aromatic, more full-bodied on the palette with a smooth finish. The soft lush fruit really held up against the spice but could have used a little more acidity to cleanse the palette at the end. We liked this wine on its own and with the dish.

Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé (currently out of stock)
Very pale rosé color; subtle hints of strawberry and red currant - a more structured wine with good acidity and a polished, dry finish. This was the best match to the dish. It had enough fruit to counterbalance the spice and great acidity that held up all the way through, bringing out the subtleties of the dish like the sweet/salty flavor of the preserved lemon. This wine was made for food and was less interesting on its own.

Given the recent popularity of rosé, I think it is worth trying out a few to get an idea of whether you want the "summer sipper" or a well-made classic like Bandol to serve with an elegant summer meal.  There are so many regions and varietals to choose from; you really need to taste what is out there.  

The key to great Corton-Charlemagne is the terroir. The Chardonnay grown here is unrivaled due to the combination of exposure and soils of white marl with high clay content over a hard limestone rock base. The result is an incredible combination of breed, class, and intensity underpinned by tremendous minerality and racy acidity. Corton-Charlemagne rivals the focused minerality of grand cru Chablis and the elegance and finesse of Chevalier-Montrachet. 

The appellation of Corton-Charlemagne encompasses three communes. It is often referred to as the Hill of Corton as the orientation and exposure affects the specific character and style:

• Ladoix-Serrigny: 6.5 ha facing primarily east and southeast, can be heavy
• Aloxe-Corton: 48.57 ha south facing which favors ripening (important in leaner years), softer and develops sooner
• Pernand-Vergelesses: 17.25 ha that swing all the way around to the west; the soil is rockier and particularly rich in flint so the wines from Pernand have more acidity and are generally more austere than those from Aloxe or Ladoix.  In particularly ripe years, the Corton-Charlemagnes from Pernand are fresher and livelier.  The wines of Bonneau du Martray, Dubreuil-Fontaine, Laleure-Piot, Rapet, and Roumier are all either largely or completely from Pernand.  All of these wines need more cellar time.

Bonneau du Martray is one of the leading estates and one of the most consistent Domaines for Corton-Charlemagne.  Bonneau du Martray also is the leading principal proprietor with 9.5 hectares.  The 2004 white burgundy vintage is a classic vintage for Burgundy lovers who love terroir. The wines are highly aromatic and show precise minerality. 

A good Corton-Charlemagne needs 8 to 10 years of ageing to show its richness and true potential.  While the 2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne is much too young to drink now, this wine will be highly cherished by the smart enthusiast and collector who cellar this smart buy.

2004 Bonneau du Martray - Corton-Charlemagne  $117     In Stock

BH 93               Drink 2012+

Now that this is in bottle, it's even better than I originally thought with a still reserved yet elegant nose of white flower, green apple, pear and natural spice and wet stone notes that introduce detailed, fresh and wonderfully intense flavors that are exceptionally clean and bright, culminating in a bone dry finish replete with superb minerality. This is not as dense as the '05 but the purity here is really something to see and as noted last year, it's sufficiently structured that it will need the better part of a decade to reach its apogee. Note that there was a trace of reduction on the nose and this would benefit from 30 minutes in a decanter should you elect to try one anytime soon.  -Allen Meadows, Burghound Issue 27, 3rd Quarter, 2007 

Late spring marks Outdoor BBQ Season even though some parts of the country are waiting for the thaw! Serious BBQ deserves well thought-out wine pairings to meld with bold flavors from spicy shrimp on the barbee, to dry-rubbed pulled pork. BBQ preparations are not just about the US, though. Let’s face it, the grill is a cook’s tool of choice worldwide! The popularity of Korean BBQ or Jamaican Jerk Chicken can’t be denied. Why not think outside of the box and travel the globe when making savvy wine pairings? Be creative, but follow proven pairing tips.  

• Stick with whites and reds that display forward fruit on the palate but not cloying sweetness. Spice and a touch of sweetness go a long way in the pairing equation!

• Choose table and sparkling wines that are naturally higher in acid. Assertive flavors need cleansing acidity to provide a natural balancing act.

• Avoid high alcohol wines. Extra spice and high octane can be cumbersome! There are some exceptions, such as Californian Zinfandel, which sometimes teeters on 17% alcohol. Just make sure you’re sipping the old-vine with gobs of berry fruit!

• Toasty oak should be in the chip form for your smoker, not in the bottle. Zesty foods will only make your wine taste like a 2x4! Oak should be minimal; wines fermented in stainless steel are favored.

• Tannic reds should be left in your cellar to mellow! Think light to medium-bodied reds, which translate into lower alcohol wines that are more versatile for food pairing.

When it comes to pairing wines with BBQ, I have trouble sitting still in my home state of California, especially with the diversity of flavor possibilities out there! So let’s take a ride through some ideal matches!

Papaya-Jalapeno Glazed Mahi Mahi - A crisp white with ample fruit and zest are critical here. I love to turn to Italy for an array of native cultivar, from Prosecco to Falanghina. Italian whites maybe the most under-appreciated white category in the world.

NV Sorelle Bronca - Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy ($15) - Prosecco makes for a wonderful budget-beater, usually coming below $15 per bottle. The Sorrelle makes for the perfect palate cleanser.

2006 Ca Dei Frati - Lugana I Frati, Veneto, Italy ($20) - Lugana is a noble clone of Trebbiano and has more length and body than many others, with all the mouth-watering acidity expected from this high acid varietal.

Slow & Low Cooked Pulled Pork - BBQ enthusiasts always have a good recipe for slow-cooked Pork Shoulder and Pork Butt in their arsenal. I find Spanish Tintos versatile and ideal companions where savory spice meets tender melt in your mouth shredded meat.

2005 Maurodos – Prima Tinto, Toro, Spain ($18) - Many Tintos from Toro can be too hard edged, but the Prima goes to the head of the class for accessibility, steering away from heavy oak. The sweet and spicy core of Tempranillo and Grenache fruit ranks high for personality and flavor.

2004 Pago Alto Landon – Manchuela, Castilla y Leon, Spain ($29) - The Manchuela D.O. is coming on strong for its blends. Bold, dark black fruit flavors coat the palate to finish with silky and supple notes.

Flank Steak with Chimichurri Sauce - “Barons of the Grill” always get inspired by this Argentine classic! Chimichurri Sauce brings on that piquant element that makes you want a few more slices. I find that Montepulciano from the Marche in S.E. Italy and Argentine Malbec are perfect steak wines, as they can handle the fresh herbal and vinegar notes of the Chimichurri.

2005 Nicodemi – ‘Notari’ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo ($15) - You want hearty flavors from your Italian varietals? Well, move over Sangiovese! Montepulciano from Abruzzo has made strides in the last twenty years. The Nicodemi Notari delivers the goods with a brooding meatiness that matches a meat lover’s appetite.

2005 Mendel – Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($23) - This 100% Malbec typifies the category! A lot of boldness for the price, and its dark saturated hue means all business without the clumsy new oak! Elements of smoke and supple blackberry in the core are a winning formula to handle the grill marks.

Hawaiian Hoisin-Glazed Baby Back Pork Ribs - I worked in restaurants in Hawaii for several years and these ribs top any pupu menu list. A super-spicy BBQ rib will be too hot for most reds, but the Hosin glaze has some restraints without losing the flavor. Big, jammy fruit notes are needed for this pairing!

2006 Broc - Vine Starr Red, California ($25) - A Zinfandel blend (67% Zin, 30% Syrah, 2% Petite Sirah & 1% Mourvedre) that packs it in with oodles of boysenberry and cranberry notes. A no brainer for Pork Ribs!

2006 Teusner – Joshua, Barossa Valley, Australia ($24) - The land of Oz has a treasure trove of perfect pairing BBQ wines, but be careful with renditions that have new oak. The Teusner Joshua doesn’t see an ounce and we like it that way! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a Cotes du Rhone on steroids! The cuvee is comprised of 65% Grenache, 25% Mataro and 10% Shiraz. The dark and expressive black and blue fruit laced with pepper makes for an afternoon BBQ delight!

Valdeorras is Godello country! What is Godello you may ask? Well, it’s an ancient white varietal that has laid its claim in Valdeorras since the Roman occupation. The region juts north of Portugal and east of Riaxas Baixas, in the Galicia region of N.W. Spain. The Romans were attracted to Valdeorras (Golden Valley) for its precious metals and gold mining, but like other areas they conquered, vineyards followed. This is also evident in Germany, Burgundy and the Northern Rhone. In the Middle Ages, the baton was passed to the Catholic Church, and monks played an instrumental role in fine-tuning the terraced vineyards. Fast forward to the modern era, when the once important Godello was not even mentioned in discussions of benchmark Spanish wines. It was only in the 1990s that certain mavericks, intent on preserving this ancient cultivar, were noticed by boutique American importers and the Spanish wine press.

Rafael Palacios was one of the several talented young winemakers who saw the potential of old-vine Godello from some of the steepest hillsides of Valdeorras. His Godello project launched in 2004, and the accolades keep coming in with the flagship “As Sortes” label. The grape has gained more popularity in the American market due to the effort of U.S. importers like Eric Solomon. Godello has followed in the footsteps of its “kissing cousin” Albarino, the banner grape of Rias Baixas, but not in terms of production. Some Valdeorras blends include both varietals, making for a crisp and aromatic wonder. Albarino is the most recognized white varietal of the region, and probably all of Spain. It’s user-friendly, with great aromatics and a mouthfeel similar to Viognier.  However, where there’s fame, there’s often over production. If Albarino is the poster child of Galicia, then old-vine Godello is a prince about to be king! I crave Godello for its searing minerality, which makes Albarino taste somewhat flabby and overtly fruity by comparison, especially when sipping a value-driven young-vine effort.

Palacios’ “As Sortes” bottling may be the finest Godello imported into the states. The name refers to an old Galician practice of children picking parcels’ names out of a hat during the passing of the inheritance.  I remember my first time tasting this wine in Spain back in 2005, and I still remember the overall package distinctively from the entry to finish. Want to put a sleeper into your next group tasting or seafood fest? Well, the 2006 “As Sortes” will make for a tasty impression. Mouth watering is an understatement! Just take a whiff of this and you will salivate, as the wine beckons you for another sip.  On my last trip to Galacia, my most memorable food and wine pairing experience was sipping on Godello with a simple preparation of pan-roasted razor clams. Sheer bliss … pinch me please!

Many would find spending $35 or more for a Spanish white not worth it, since you can usually find pleasant quaffers for $15 to $20. We’re not talking quaffer here, but more of a palate-changing experience. Consider the 2006 “As Sortes” based on its aromatic depth and mouthfeel. Close your eyes and you might think you’re about to wrap your lips onto a 1er Cru Puligny or Chassagne Montrachet with a hint of Riesling-esque minerality typical of a dry Austrian style. Chalk up some zesty spice and lemon peel with a dose of stone fruit. Yes, there are many superlatives here, but talk is cheap, so pick up a six-pack of this limited production old-vine white. “As Sortes”’ can age better than Albarino, and it gains more complexity with a few years of bottle age. A flavor impression, seafood-pairing champion, this Valdeorras superstar needs your love! The “As Sortes” is a must for anyone who likes classy White Burgundy!

 

 

2006 Rafael Palacios "As Sortes" ($41) IWC 92

I faced a dilemma of epic proportions…pulled pork, tri-tip or smoked sausage. At the Beach Pit BBQ in Costa Mesa (SoCal - a.k.a. The O.C.), they serve a mean array of grilled flesh with one of the best tangy, spicy sauces I’ve had. Finally deciding (sliders – one of each) presented me with another quandary. What the heck was I going to drink with all this hot, meaty goodness? Dad (whose genes I am convinced have a great deal to do with my wine tasting affinity) came to the rescue. With a wry smile, Dad quipped “I know how much you love Chateauneuf-du-Pape.”  Yes, well, and that love knows no limits, as I am sure he was remembering the time I drank his last bottle of 1989 Beaucastel ($235) during a weekend home from college. Youthful trangressions forgotten, he graciously proffered the Monpertuis 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Classique" ($33/750ml or $21/375ml) for my dining pleasure.  Now this is a wine that is made for hearty, flavor-spiked, spice-laden fare. It starts out with a pure, racy, juicy Grenache-driven palate that seduces you with spicy herb and pepper laced-up with strawberry and raspberry fruit. With in-your-face food we were eating/wearing, this elegance transcended its humble bottle persona and expressed such complementary trappings that we were into bottle number two before we knew it. This is simply beautiful, pure Rhone complexity, round and reasonable with immediate gratification its only goal.

The Vinfolio motto of Fine Wine, Finer Service runs deep considering our company has six dedicated Wine Specialists working to make sure your account is fully serviced. Just because we’re an on-line retailer doesn’t mean we can’t give our clients the same personal service as a traditional brick n’ mortar operation.  

We offer a myriad of services for the enthusiast and collector alike, but the most enjoyable part of my day at the office is offering personal recommendations for my clients. The bottom line is that we all want to share our top picks with others who share our passions about wine. For the client, getting recommendations from a wine professional is a great way to expand the palate without being held to a reviewer’s rating system. Having the opportunity to taste allows me to make more informed decisions on what my clients will enjoy, rather than relying on another reviewer’s score.
Much of my Bay Area wine career has been spent making recommendations in a restaurant setting, or managing boutique wine stores. Just like everyone on the Vinfolio Wine Team, I encourage clients to reach out for recommendations based on budget, palate preference or gift-giving parameters. I like being able to personally take my clients on a palate tour of the world, offering many wines they hadn’t considered or even known existed. Global treasures are being imported at record levels, so think outside of the box! Bring on your requests for a mixed sampler and I’ll make sure that you come away with a satisfying experience.  Once you try the wines, give feedback so I can better understand your palate preferences. My personal gratification is always reinforced when clients share with me their own impressions of the wines.

Below is a mixed case or six-pack sampler to please both the neophyte and connoisseur. These selections will perform well at a dinner or cocktail party, or provide a great go-to option at home throughout the year and down the road.  

Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Pierre Moncuit-Delos, Champagne, France NV  ($32.95)
Move over Veuve Yellow Label! This small family run operation knows Chardonnay! The estate and holdings are in Le Mesnil sur-Oger which is the most revered village in all of Cotes de Blancs. Do you need a bubbly in the same fold as Salon and Krug, but need to stay in budget? Well, Moncuit is waiting for your love!

2006 Fratelli Pra, Soave Classico Superiore “Vigneto Monte Grande”, Veneto, Italy ($25.00)
I just tasted this at the Gambero Rosso Road Show in San Francisco. This single vineyard Soave is a far cry from your Grandma’s Bolla of the 1970s! The 2006 is a flat-out crowd pleaser, guaranteed!

2006 Pascal Cotat Sancerre Chavignol “Mont Damnes”, Loire Valley, France ($34.95)
The Holly Grail of Sauvignon can be found in Chavignol, specifically the Mont Damnes parcel. A truly benchmark French category that’s a little bit of sunshine in the glass with bright citrus-flint infusion on the nose, followed by high beam lime zest, sea salt and a tinge of raw almonds on the mid-palate. Got Chevre?

2004 Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos- San Roman, Toro, Spain ($49.00)
Tempranillo Supreme! Highly-regarded winemaker Mariano Garcia’s (formerly of Vega Sicilia) new Toro project really shines with the stellar 2004 vintage. Bush-trained 100% Tempranillo vines (70-year-old average) are kept to extremely low yields, which transfers into the glass with concentrated black n’ blue notes. Decant in its youth for aeration purposes. This darling needs at least a couple years to mellow out!

2004 Cantina Terlano Lagrein Porphyr Riserva, Alto Adige, Italy ($39.00)
Lagrein is native to Alto Adige, and it’s safe to say you won’t find it outside the Dolomiti. Cantina Terlano is a cooperative of long-established growers founded in 1893. Experience goes a long way, which is especially clear with the “Porphyr” single vineyard effort. Lagrein is always meat,y without the sappy fruit you find with many “New World” reds. Silkened blackberry fruit is laced with bitter dark chocolate and mineral notes.

2004 Domaine du Caillou Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Quartz", Southern Rhone, France ($69.00)
This effort is one of my favorite Chateauneufs. Here’s a great pick for someone who leans more toward a California style. But don’t be fooled, this effort is truly French; the old-vine Grenache sings with white pepper, followed on the palate by dark berry fruit, Kirschwasser encased in a cloak of mouthwatering minerality.

A little while back a group of friends decided to celebrate the holidays at my favorite restaurant south of San Francisco, Manresa.  This fabulous place is named after the medieval town in Catalonia and gets much of the cuisine’s inspiration from that region as well as from the European classics and local biodynamic farming.  David Kinch, the Executive Chef, has worked at famous restaurants throughout the world from the Quilted Giraffe in New York, to Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain and everywhere in between and has a style all his own—he created my favorite amuse-bouche in the US, a coddled egg with foie gras, maple syrup and caviar.  What a way to start any meal.  I could certainly do it for breakfast, lunch, AND dinner.

When we first arrived in the private room we were all presented with a glass of Non-Vintage Drappier Val des Demoiselles. It has a wonder balance of fruit and acidity. On the palate, there was a hint of cassis.  This Champagne has lovely freshness, with a breath of toastiness and great length.  Once we were all seated, we were treated to Kobe-style American Beef and Oyster Tartar.  Though I have experienced Manresa on numerous occasions, this dish was a new one me and what a treat!  The marriage between the two very distinct flavors was absolutely superb and it virtually melted in my mouth.  Our second amuse was a daring Kohlrabi and Foie Gras Royale demonstrating Chef Kinch’s knack for blending very different textures with outstanding results.

Our first course consisted of Monterey Bay Spot Prawns on the Planch with exotic Indian spice.  The prawns were so sweet and creamy they melted in my mouth; the sauce had fantastic cumin and coriander; and the combination was very fresh and light as there was no cream to weigh it down at the beginning of the meal.  This delectable dish was served with a 2006 Diatom Huber Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills.  It had a hint of herbaceousness and green papaya.  The 100% malolactic fermentation was certainly apparent and it had a fairly pronounced buttery character.  It was a bit green on the palate, with good acidity, balance, and length.  It was a lovely pairing with the prawns as there was also a good deal of lychee and exotic fruit as well.

This being December in the Bay Area, our next treat was of course Dungeness Crab prepared in a risotto with black truffles.  For those of you who are unaware, we had an oil spill occur in the San Francicsco Bay just before Thanksgiving.  It closed beaches and delayed the official beginning of Crab Season by several weeks.  But good things certainly come to those who wait.  The crab was so sweet, the risotto creamy and cooked to perfection, and who could ever look down their noses at black truffles from Perigord?  To accompany this delectable dish we had a 2002 Gros Frère et Soeur Vosne-Romanée.  With its beautiful ruby color, it was a classic Vosne-Romanée with hints of violettes and that traditional "barnyard" (and I do mean that in the best sense) aroma.  A perfect Côte de Nuits, the wine was lovely and elegant with great acidity and length.  It the end it was the red berry and tobacco that lingered the most.

Our next course was the Guinea Hen poached and then roasted with Winter Vegetable and Citrus.  This was the perfect dish for a cold winter evening with friends.  The hen was rich and moist while the hearty root vegetables were still kept light and savory with the help of the citrus.  This memorable course was accompanied by the 2004 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands.  It had a dark ruby hue and a nose that was all cherry and mint.  There was a good deal of acidity to this Pinot and very fresh for a '04.  The finish had lots of sweetness and a gentle hint of melted brown sugar.

Our main course was an amazing Roast Beef with Yellowfoot Mushrooms and Crushed Potatoes with Horseradish.  The beef was beautifully roasted – just the right amount of pink for me.  The potatoes were from heaven, so sweet from the caramelization accompanied by delectable mushrooms. As this course was fit for a king, we had of course the king of Napa varietals, the 2004 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon, out of magnum.  The deep, opaque aubergine color was amazing.  In the nose were hints of mint, black cherry, and molasses.  On the palate it was almost over the top for the scrumptious yet mild roast beef.  It had huge, mouth puckering tannins, yet the overall body and structure was still fairly restrained.   We enjoyed this wine with a selection of cheeses ranging from a French raw goat’s milk, a harder Spanish goat’s milk, to an American blue wrapped in grape leaves.  Even with the intense color and acidity, this will be a fantastic wine to cellar for a years so as to enjoy it again with prime rib at some date after 2012.  

Our dessert course consisted of Dark Chocolate Fondant and Chicory Cremeux with Caramel Bouillon and hazelnut Ice Cream.  The chicory gave a pleasing crunchy consistency as well as flavor to the dish.  The hazelnut ice cream was a dream.  I have only had its equivalent once and that was in Piedmonte, Italy!  The caramel bouillon was wonderful with elegance and beautiful balance - not too sweet, just enough.  This dish also paired well with the Hourglass.

It was a fabulous way to celebrate the holidays with my dear friends from Saratoga and the fantastic staff at Manresa:  David, the always brilliant and low-key chef, Jeff, one of my favorite wine stewards, and Esteban, the ever welcoming Maître d’hôtel.  Everyone who works at Manresa has a class and professionalism that puts them truly head and shoulders above the rest.  Thank you again Russel and Susan Perry as well as everyone at Manresa.  Happy 2008!

My Tuscan exploration continues. Excited by a recent showing of the 1997 Argiano, I came across a bottle of the 1990 and took it to a favorite Italian restaurant called Sociale. Not only am I high on Brunello at the moment, particularly from the trustworthy producers whose wines age gracefully and properly, but the 1990 vintage has me rather excited to dive deeper into what is an exceptional year for Tuscany and Brunello di Montalcino in particular.
 
The 1990 Argiano showed really, really well. It’s mature, but has ample fruit and structure for continued development. Sangiovese’s hallmark acidity brought verve and liveliness that helped the wine develop throughout the meal. The wine revealed beautiful dark fruits, floral character, as well as notes of spice and mushroom.

My advice is to get into the 1990 Brunellos. Bottles from producers of balanced, age-able wines are certain to offer tons of pleasure at this point in time – I would imagine very few require more bottle age. This bottle is the most recent in a succession of great 1990s (such as Valdicava, Ciacci Piccolomini, Altesino) that I’ve recently tried. I haven’t found any over-ripeness, roasted qualities or imbalance that the year’s heat had brought to other regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and even Piedmont. There are tons of 1990 Brunellos floating around the market and through Vinfolio. They are truly worth your attention. Below are some prime examples:

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 93, $95

1990 Poggione - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, WS 91, $135

1990 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) - Brunello di Montalcino, $150

1990 Poggio Antico - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 91, $169

1990 Caparzo - Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa, WA 91, $185

1990 Banfi - Brunello di Montalcino Poggio all'Oro Riserva, $189

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, $225

The 2006 Oregon Pinot Noir vintage is looking great.  Wine Spectator comments, “those who like the suppleness and relatively light texture of Oregon Pinot will want to stock up this year.  2006 saw a long, hot summer that got the grapes totally ripe.  The flavors are sweet and the textures supple.  Look for generous wines with higher alcohols than the moderate levels seen in 2004 and 2005.  The wines have impressive depth and drink-me-now quality…The run ends in 2007, though, as heavy rains fell on a larger than normal grape crop just as it was ripening.”  (Harvey Steiman, The Wine Spectator, Vol. 32, No. 15)

Growing up in Seattle, I have always been a huge fan of the Shea Vineyard (sourced by Panther Creek, Ken Wright, St Innocent, and even Sine Qua Non).  I bought the 2006 Shea Wine Cellars - Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Estate myself.  The Shea Vineyard is the source for Oregon Pinot and this is a reference standard.  If you want to do an interesting comparative tasting of vineyard-designate Pinot, start gathering the various renditions of the 2006 Shea Vineyard. 

Currently in stock:

 2006 Raptor Ridge Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard ($46)

A ginger and black cherry nose with soft undertones of mocha and vanilla dust. The palate shows well defined weight and deeply structured flavors; black berry, plum, hints of smoky licorice and kirsch that coat the palate with velvet-like tannins. Another Shea masterpiece. VF 96

- Doug Wilder, The Wilder Side of California, Issue 136

 

 

 2006 Shea Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard Estate ($45) 

The nose shows violet and licorice/sassafras with cola and black cherry tart. The fat, powdered blueberry and violet ripeness on the palate is balanced by focused acidity. More structured than the 2005. VF 95

- Doug Wilder, The Wilder Side of California, Issue 143