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I admit to being a bit of a history geek, but don’t usually advertise that I am a war/battle site geek too.  Locales of devastation and fighting have somehow gotten worked in to most of the vacations I’ve taken in my adult life.  I also like wine, and since Alsace tempts two of my interests, it was the perfect place to spend a few days of my trip to France last November.  A region torn between frequent sparring partners France and Germany, and influenced in language and culture by both, Alsace holds a special, if not especially appreciated, place in the world of French wine.

Situated along the Rhine River, which forms its eastern boundary, Alsace has been taken and re-taken by the armies of its neighbors since the 9^th century; this has impacted its wine noticeably in the modern era.  As a region of France, Alsace was “northerly,” and produced wines of high acidity and low sugar, the better to blend with grapes from warmer southern regions that could get higher sugar levels.  As a region of Germany, Alsace was “southerly” and expected to produce wines higher in sugar to blend with the more acidic grapes grown in the north.  Because of this back-and-forth of history and war, Alsace wasn’t able to establish its own true style until much later than the rest of both France and Germany.  Though farmers by tradition, the grape growers of Alsace often had to turn to other trades and livelihoods to survive during tough times.  Vineyards, not a priority, were not kept up, which has been another factor in the inconsistency of Alsacian wine.

All is not bleak, though, as in recent decades more attention (and money) has been paid to vineyards and winemaking practices. The region gained AOC status in 1967 and is unique in that varietal names are on the labels, making the wines that much more accessible to Americans. Not only are the wines themselves inviting, but the region welcomes visitors with open arms and amazing food (if you like pork!). In the small villages lining the wine route, it’s perfectly normal to knock on winemakers’ doors; you’ll be invited right in to taste the domaine’s renditions of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, or Muscat! These drop-in producers might not be the pinnacle of quality, but chatting in broken French/English in someone’s kitchen is always a good way to get to know an area.

I had both the formal tasting appointment and drop-in experiences during my time in Alsace. For a fun bottle to drink with lunch, I stuck to unknown names and labels, exploring whatever was on the restaurant menu. For the purpose of buying higher quality bottles to bring home, the top producers didn’t fail to impress. My favorite producers were ones with whom we had scheduled appointments: Hugel & Fils, Marcel Diess, and Ernest Burn. For lower priced but very tasty wines, I picked up a Riesling from Bott Freres and a Pinot Gris from Kuehn. Whether dry or sweet, Alsacian wines offer an easy-to-understand, deliciously refreshing alternative to more standard summer whites.

Click here to see Vinfolio's current wine selections from Alsace. 

Recently, I was climbing over a fence in a skirt, trying not to fall on my face.  To my left, a deer spine and hind leg snaked through the posts.  It was cold; nose-running, eyes-watering cold and windy, and little rain drops were starting to knife their way down from dark clouds.  At 2,200 feet above sea level, Mt Harlan seemed a magnet for the oncoming storm. On the other side of the fence laid the motivation for being out in this kind of weather, dressed so inappropriately.  Josh Jensen’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines arched tightly up and down the hills, separated by blankets of bright green groundcover. I have to admit, I was freezing, and so didn’t walk far enough in the right direction to see the famed lime kiln for which the Calera Wine Company is named.  I did, however, spot innumerable whitish pebbles sticking up out of the soil, belying the geological fact of a vast limestone deposit’s presence below.   

Jensen’s vines are fairly widely spaced, as is true of most vineyards planted in the late 1970s.  Sections have been replanted, but the Pinot remains entirely Calera clone, planted with cuttings taken from Chalone vineyards across the valley. The Calera Pinot vineyards (Selleck, Reed, Jensen, and Mills) produce wines of varying profiles, depending on their exact location, but all are unmistakably clear expressions of pure Pinot fruit.  Of the 2005s tasted, my favorite was from the Jensen Vineyard as it jumped out of the glass with red fruit on the nose, and continued with structure on the palate, providing the "backbone" for the warm spice roundness.  Good acidity carried the wine through to a long, balanced finish.  Also of note, though not Pinot, was the Chardonnay Mt Harlan, with an equally vibrant nose and excellent clarity and focus from attack to mid-palate to finish.

If you have a free Sunday, take the beautiful drive toward Hollister and taste at Calera.  Even if you don’t have time to break away, try a bottle of Josh Jensen’s Mt Harlan Pinot Noir or Chardonnay.  You won’t be disappointed.

So you want to plan a trip to wine country but you’re tired of Napa Valley – the back up of cars starts at Yountville, throngs of people at every tasting room, same varietals that become indistinguishable after the fourth winery and the high price of tasting at some of the top producers – no thanks.

We were a group of five, regular consumers with very different tastes in wine.  We decided to try to take the stress out of visiting wine country, and with a little pre-planning, we had one of the best days we could remember (and it wasn’t because we “over-sampled” on the previous trips). Here is why:

1. Transportation - the best way for all of us to enjoy the day was to have someone else drive so we hired a limo.  Ok, that is not going to be an option for everyone but give it some thought and do some research on other options like shuttle buses or smaller group tours outside of Napa.  If you have a friend willing to drive (sans drinking), even better.
2. Itinerary – many people just like to “wing it” when they are in wine country, but having a few pre-planned stops in nearby appellations is going to give you a chance to see more than going up one road and stopping every 20 feet.  Having a scheduled appointment for a tasting or a tour (most wineries have web sites with all the info) will give you a starting or an ending point. Unless you want to turn your day into a pub crawl, I recommend visiting no more than 3-4 wineries.
3. Wineries – Sonoma was the best choice to avoid the heavy weekend Napa crowds and since one person had a specific request to visit a Pinot Noir producer in the Russian River area, I looked for other small producers in the Dry Creek area who focused on other varietals.  Since we would head south to Carneros by day’s end, we found a winery just north of Sonoma (in Bennett Valley) that had a beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking their lavender fields.  Try to get some recommendations from your local wine retailer if you want to make a list of places to research before you go.
4. Tasting – while there are very few places that offer free tastings, Sonoma’s appellations tend to be cheaper ($5 for 5-6 wines) and offer more variety of (not just chard, merlot and cab).  You don’t have to get out your wine journal; rather, use the winery tasting list to note basic thoughts and whether it is worth purchasing.  Also, if you like the wines and engage the staff by asking questions, they sometimes bring out bottles that are not on the tasting menu. You may get to try something really special.

Unti Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley

Talk about a gem, we loved this place!  Mick and Linda Unti have taken on the family vineyard started by Mick’s father George.  They grow some of the more recognizable varietals in the Dry Creek area, but they are known for their Grenache and Barbera, as well other Mediterranean varietals that are perfectly suited to the climate.  They even have several winemaker fans of their Grenache and Syrah: Novy, Renard, and Ogden Olson make their own Unti Vineyard cuvées.

The first thing you notice is the modest and functional tasting room and storage area (ageing vats and all), and then their friendly staff takes you through their current wine selection (free!).  We were lucky enough to taste and buy some of their Rosé of Grenache – a delicate, well structured rosé with hints of strawberry, finishing with a crisp, fresh finish. This beautifully made wine could rival some of the best Provencal rosés.  Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that their winemaker, Sébastien Pochan, is from Southern France.

We also tried the Barbera, Grenache, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Segromigno and Rhone blend.  All the wines were very well balanced and flavorful.  The Barbera was juicy, youthful and delicious, while the Grenache had extra layers on the nose and a palate whose complexity reminded me of Chateaneuf.  The Petite Sirah and Syrah showed good fruit, tannin and an earthy quality that everyone thought worked well together.  Each wine had very unique characteristics.  The Grenache, Barbera and Petite Sirah tied for the most “thumbs up” - 5 out of 5 for each.  The Rosé and the Zinfandel ran a close second.

It is pretty clear that the folks at Unti are all about growing the best possible grapes and making really good wine.

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley 

This stop was a special request for one member of the group.  Perched atop a hill, the tasting room has a panoramic view of the Russian River Valley.  The winery has a long history of making Pinot Noir from some of the most well known vineyards in the area – Rochioli and Allen.  They have branched out to Cabernet and Zinfandel, but their strengths lie with Pinot and Chardonnay.

This tasting room was a little more up-market and a bit busier, but the ambiance was still relaxing, not noisy or overcrowded.  There was plenty of staff on hand to offer tasting options: a Premier Tasting ($10) featuring single vineyard Pinot, Chard and Cab, or their Current Releases ($5) that included main varietals plus Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. 

We were all very impressed with the 2004 Chardonnay from the Rochioli-Allen Vineyards – it was a pretty and delicate with subtle notes of pear, honeysuckle, mineral and oak – overall an elegant wine.  They also had a 2006 Sonoma County/Redwood Ranch Sauvignon Blanc with bright citrus fruit and crisp acidity.

As usual, the Pinot Noir showed well with the 2004 Starr Ridge Vineyard as our favorite – ripe cherry fruit, a little bit of earth and a smooth finish.  The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County was balanced, but delicate on the fruit and tannin.  The Zinfandel was the least favorite of the group lacking flavor and balance.  The Rochioli-Allen vineyard Chard was the clear winner with 5 thumbs up with the Sauvignon Blanc and the Pinot coming in a close second with 4 thumbs up each.

After the tasting we sat outside to enjoy the great weather and beautiful view. We could see why this was a popular stop.

Matanzas Creek Winery, Bennett Valley

After a quick lunch and tour of the town of Healdsburg, we headed toward Bennett Valley located in the northern part Sonoma Valley.  The winery is set back from the road, closer to the hills and flanked by beautiful lavender gardens.  You really get a relaxed feeling coming into the winery by its nice view overlooking the valley and gardens.  While Gary Farrell had a more refined tasting room, Matanzas Creek made you feel right at home.  The room was modest and while they sold their own lavender-based products, you got the feeling they were more focused on the wine than the marketing.

I had heard good things about the wines – well made, versatile and crowd pleasing.  They are known for their Merlot, but the whites showed well.  We all chose the basic tasting ($5) to be able to try the most varietals – Sauvignon Blanc, Chard, Rosé, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.   The NV Rosé – a blend of Merlot and Syrah, was interesting but a little too soft.  I liked the 2005 Sauvignon Blanc – it was rich with fresh melon flavors.  The 2005 Chardonnay Sonoma Valley was good – medium weight with smoke, vanilla and nice balance between fruit and acidity.

The 2005 Merlot Bennett Valley, their signature wine, had lots of blueberry and smoke on the nose with a soft mid-palate and good finish – a very versatile wine with good character.  We all gave it a thumbs up and would recommend it.  As it was the end of the tasting day (3:30), we got the chance to taste a few other wines that weren’t on the list.  The 2001 Jackson Park Merlot was the surprise hit, whose nose offered a unique combination of cassis, earth, black olive, saddle leather and a bit more chew that would make the wine a great match for grilled lamb.  We gave it 5 thumbs up along with the Bennet Valley Merlot.  The Chardonnay came in second and the rest a split decision.

If you are looking for a more laid-back winery without the pretension of some of the more popular places in Russian River, this is a great stop.

 

This past Memorial Day weekend, my husband and I ventured up to Mendocino County to view the famous redwood trees, rocky coastline, and above all, taste the wines from Anderson Valley. We were not disappointed. Here are a few highlights of the trip. (As always, if you are inspired to purchase any of the wines mentioned below, you can make a “quote request” in Vinfolio’s wine store if they are not currently in inventory.)

After a leisurely drive up from San Francisco Saturday morning, we made our way up to the Anderson Valley, just two and ½ hours north of the city. This East-West valley is known for growing cool climate grapes (such as Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewurztraminer) that benefit from the coastal breezes and fog that seep in from the coast. We made our first stop off of Hwy 128 at Goldeneye Winery located just after the little town of Boonesville. As Duckhorn Vineyards’ sister label, Goldeneye specializes in producing Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Here we enjoyed their tasting while soaking up sun and serenity of their backyard patio. The “enhanced” tasting included a Vin Gris de Pinot Noir, Goldeneye Pinot Noir, Migration Pinot Noir, as well as two single-vineyard Pinots whose fruit was sourced from the Confluence and Narrows Vineyards.  The rosé was dry and particularly refreshing showing hints of strawberry and raspberry. Of the Pinot Noirs, our favorite was their flagship, the 2004 Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.  Its taste was the most well-balanced incorporating both earthy notes as well as dark berry flavors such as blackberry and blueberry, and it was very reasonably priced.

Later that afternoon we tried the sparkling wines at Scharffenberger Cellars and Roederer Estate. At Roederer, it was particularly interesting to compare their non-vintage cuvee in both 750 ml and magnum format. The magnum revealed a more creamy palate and a longer length than the same wine from the 750 ml. One other interesting winery was Greenwood Ridge Vineyards whose yurt-like tasting building was decorated with ribbons awarded from numerous county fairs. We were charmed by Greenwood’s 2006 Late Harvest White Riesling whose 18% residual sugar necessitates that its apricot, honeyed nectar be consumed in small sips.

That evening, after arriving in the scenic, coastal town of Mendocino, we dined at Café Beajolais, a local French restaurant situated in what started as a Victorian Farmhouse in 1893. Here we took a break from the Anderson Valley vineyards and started the meal with a half bottle of 2005 Champaut Sancerre Les Pierres (Loire, France). This clean and refreshing white was a lovely complement to a smoky spinach salad garnished with tomato, goat cheese and bacon. We also loved their 2005 Elk Cove Mt. Richmond Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, Oregon. This proved a great pair to my Columbia River Sturgeon Fillet that was bathed in a truffle emulsion sauce and wild mushrooms. This Burgundian style pinot bridged the flavors of earth and sea as it enhanced the earthy characteristics of the sauce and as well as the texture of the fish. Finally, the Navarro’s Cluster Select Late Harvest White Riesling brought a sweet finish to our home-style dessert of gingerbread and peaches.

At the start of Sunday’s glorious sunny morning, we popped into Husch Vineyards, which has the distinction of being the oldest winery in the Anderson Valley and the first to plant Pinot Noir grapes in that area. We couldn’t stay long in their tasting room (an old converted pony barn) as we had a scheduled tour at Navarro Vineyards just down the street. Along our tour, we learned the owners, Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn, chose the location in 1972 because they felt it resembled the terroir in Alsace. Our guide explained that just 10% of the property was planted and that they had to replant certain vineyards changing the root stock to protect it from phylloxera. In addition to tasting their large range of wines (the Pinot Noir and dessert Muscat were my favorites), we enjoyed meeting the vineyard animals including two llamas, a flock of chickens, and several goats, all of which help to maintain the grounds. Our last stop before exploring the coast was at Handley Cellars, a small family run winery that impressed us with their 2005 Cole Ranch Riesling (by the cleanness of flavor) and 2004 Redwood Valley Syrah (because of its richness and depth of fruit).

After a full day, we dined that evening at the Albion River Inn whose restaurant offers a spectacular coastal view and live piano music. We reveled in the long sunset hours, again taking a break from the local wines, and enjoying a 2004 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis La Forest 1er Cru. The wine had a flinty, mineral nose and citrus and stones on the palate. It revealed its caliber by its long, vibrant finish. We agreed that it was outstanding and savored its last drops!

Monday was our day to drive home, but we did find time to visit two small wineries on the way out. The first stop was at Meyer Family Cellars, whose family is primarily known for their Silver Oak Winery in Napa Valley. This newer property, however, is located in the Yorkville Highlands appellation, a place where Meyer Family’s co-winemakers, Matt and Karen Meyer, believe the climate is ideal for growing Syrah grapes. The days are warm but the cool nights lock in the grapes’ acidity. Karen (Matt’s wife from Perth, Australia) served us their Sonoma and Mendocino Syrahs as well as their Syrah Port. The port’s rich sweetness was a natural pair with bits of dark chocolate. Karen also explained that the winery will soon re-release their famous Bonny Vineyard Cabernet (from Napa’s Oakville AVA) under the Meyer Family label.

Our last stop of the trip was at Maple Creek Winery, the home of the Artevino label reflecting the owners’, Tom Rodrigues and Linda Stutz, passion for both art and wine. This winery produces a wide variety of wines at reasonable prices. We loved their Sauvignon Blanc style 2006 Buckin' Blanco Chardonnay and agreed that its crisp tropical flavors would pair fabulously with grilled shrimp or crab cakes at a summer barbeque.  

All in all, we highly recommend visiting Mendocino’s wine country with its low-key atmosphere and beautiful scenery. The wines typically showed steely acidity and concentrated fruit. It is a place to breathe and savor the freshness of nature.