Wow…two GREAT tastings in the span of 4 days.The first, La Paulee San Francisco – Grand Tasting, a Burgundian extravaganza, was held on Saturday, March 1st. This tasting showcased some of the top producers of Burgundy and their wines, mostly from the outstanding 2004 (white) & 2005 (red) vintages. The wines were sublime – definitely worth seeking out for your collection. The wine was poured by top sommeliers from around the country, and the food prepared by the who’s who of the San Francisco dining scene. I’ve already made my reservations for La Paulee next year when it returns to New York. I can’t recommend this tasting highly enough if you’re a fan of Burgundy wines or just want to learn more about them. My standout red of the tasting was the 2005 Domaine Jacques Frédéric Mugnier – Musigny.  It was showing beautifully in its youth, but I can only imagine what this wine will evolve into over the next 10-30 years.  My favorite white was the 2005 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey - Corton-Charlemagne.  My tasting notes were simple – Intense, Rich, Apple, Vanilla, Lime, Mineral – awesome now…long life ahead.

                                       

 

Four days later, on Wednesday, March 5^th, Gambero Rosso put on a tasting event of current release Italian wines at the Herbst Pavilion-Ft. Mason in San Francisco. The vintages covered 2000 through 2006. I’ve tasted many wines from the Tuscany and Piedmont regions from the great 2000 and 2001 vintages, and have been more than impressed with the overall quality. I was extremely excited to taste the 2004s and see firsthand if they measured up to the hype. Short answer…THEY DID! The 2004s that I tried had incredible structure and balance, and they should not be missed!  Some of my favorites that Vinfolio currently stocks are:

2004 Felsina Berardenga - Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva, IWC 95 ($37)

2004 Felsina Berardenga - Fontalloro, IWC 94 ($44)

2004 Pupille - Saffredi, WS 97 ($109)

2004 Querciabella - Camartina,WA 95 ($87)

2004 Sette Ponti - Oreno,WS 95 ($65.95)

I cannot recommend and emphasize enough that if you aren’t buying wines from the 2004 Tuscany and Piedmont campaigns, you will be remorse.  This is a classic vintage with many estates producing some of their finest wines ever.  Now is the time to purchase these wines and to go deep on your favorites.  The campaigns have started for the 2004s and we source more every day.  These are “must haves” for the wine lover and wine collector alike and represent some of the last vestiges of affordable fine and collectible wine.

Click here to view 2004 Tuscany

Click here to view 2004 Piedmont

Antonio Galloni on 2004 Tuscany:

Simply put, 2004 is a superb vintage in Central Tuscany…..  Readers will be tempted to enjoy these 2004s young, but the wines will only show the full extent of their potential in some years. Not to be left behind, 2004 is also a superb vintage for the Super-Tuscan blends of indigenous and international varietals….. Wines such as Solaia, Tignanello and Camartina are especially noteworthy.  All of the wines mentioned above feature extraordinary length and finesse as well as sweet, silky tannins which makes them incredibly appealing even at this early stage. Simply put, the best 2004s are reference-point wines for the region and are not to be missed.

Stephen Tanzer on 2004 Piedmont:

…… The splendid 2004 Barolos and Barbarescos were the highlight of my tour…..The better 2004s are scented and elegant, and at the same time structured and strong. They show many stylistic similarities to the 2001s, another warm season that benefited from fine conditions before and during the harvest. While both of these vintages can be described as “classic,” tannins are generally ripe, and although these wines are structured to evolve in bottle for a decade or two, there’s relatively little of the early austerity that characterized so many big nebbiolo wines of years past. Many producers I visited in September rate the two vintages as roughly equal. Some prefer 2004 for their suppler tannins and more immediate appeal.

Antonio Galloni on 2004 Piedmont:

After a series of poor 2002s and uneven 2003s Barbaresco bounces back with its stunning 2004s……For many estates the 2004s are without question the finest wines they have ever made, although as always, there are a handful of disappointments. The best 2004 Barbarescos are wonderfully complete, with the sweetness of the 2000s and the greater aromatic complexity, detail and finesse of the 2001s……Stylistically 2004 is closest to 1996, 1999 and 2001 although the wines in general possess more sweetness, generosity and finesse than any of those vintages. Simply put, 2004 is a vintage that has the potential to redefine many consumers’ views of the heights Nebbiolo can achieve……As in Barbaresco, the 2004 Barolos are extraordinary. They, too, are the finest wines many estates have ever produced.

The premise of the tastings is to better educate the press, trade and the public on the state of Italian wine, and the great strives that have been made in the last decade. The events will be conducted in an open walk-around fashion with seminars led by industry experts. The upcoming San Francisco tasting will mark my fourth "Tre Bicchieri" event I have attended, although this year marks the first ‘Roadshow.’ The venue has become much better attended with an expanded regional representation. Furthermore, the sheer number of wines to be poured has doubled. This is a must-attend event to really appreciate the menagerie of native varietals from unknown regions. Classic regions such as Tuscany, Piedmont and Veneto will be showcased, but you will also expand your horizons by tasting wines from ancient growing regions from all corners of the country and neighboring islands. Expect to taste wines with regional personality that display a whole lot of soul and pedigree, from easy sipping value whites to limited reserve wines that are rarely poured stateside, and are highly allocated to the American market. I don't know any other Italian tasting that will be more informative and flavorful than this event.

San Francisco Tre Bicchieri Tasting
Wednesday, March 5th 2008
Herbst Pavillon - Fort Mason Center
Doors open for Press at 3:00 p.m.
General Admission 4:00 to 8:00 p.m.

Vinfolio has showcased several noted ‘Tre Bichieri’ winners in the past. Like Gambero Rosso’s mission, we also strive to secure and promote the best from Italy. A barrage of wineries has won multiple times over the years, and we are committed to sourcing these estates from both private collections and the Western European market.   

Below is a list of estates that we have had the pleasure of showcasing both their older and more recent releases.  

Piedmont: Gaja, La Spinetta, Elio Altare, Dominco Clerico, Giacomo Conterno, Matteo Correggia, Roberto Voerzio, Conterno Fantino, Aldo Conterno and Bruno Giacosa.

Tuscany: Fattoria di Felsina, Marchesi Antinori, Poliziano, Tenuta San Guido, Tenuta Fontodi, Isole e Olena, Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Querciabella, Casanova di Neri, Castello dei Rampolla, Montevertine and Tua Rita.

Veneto: Allegrini, Romano Dal Forno and Giuseppe Quintarelli.

My Tuscan exploration continues. Excited by a recent showing of the 1997 Argiano, I came across a bottle of the 1990 and took it to a favorite Italian restaurant called Sociale. Not only am I high on Brunello at the moment, particularly from the trustworthy producers whose wines age gracefully and properly, but the 1990 vintage has me rather excited to dive deeper into what is an exceptional year for Tuscany and Brunello di Montalcino in particular.
 
The 1990 Argiano showed really, really well. It’s mature, but has ample fruit and structure for continued development. Sangiovese’s hallmark acidity brought verve and liveliness that helped the wine develop throughout the meal. The wine revealed beautiful dark fruits, floral character, as well as notes of spice and mushroom.

My advice is to get into the 1990 Brunellos. Bottles from producers of balanced, age-able wines are certain to offer tons of pleasure at this point in time – I would imagine very few require more bottle age. This bottle is the most recent in a succession of great 1990s (such as Valdicava, Ciacci Piccolomini, Altesino) that I’ve recently tried. I haven’t found any over-ripeness, roasted qualities or imbalance that the year’s heat had brought to other regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and even Piedmont. There are tons of 1990 Brunellos floating around the market and through Vinfolio. They are truly worth your attention. Below are some prime examples:

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 93, $95

1990 Poggione - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, WS 91, $135

1990 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) - Brunello di Montalcino, $150

1990 Poggio Antico - Brunello di Montalcino, WS 91, $169

1990 Caparzo - Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa, WA 91, $185

1990 Banfi - Brunello di Montalcino Poggio all'Oro Riserva, $189

1990 Costanti, Conti - Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, $225

I’ve heard, and sometimes sided with, the argument that narrowly declares Sangiovese the ­only real Tuscan grape. Without a doubt Sangiovese best expresses the Tuscan region, but “Super-Tuscans” have been gaining their “street cred” as formidable newcomers.  Recently, I’ve been scanning the landscape of these Cabernet-based blends which, I think, deserve every bit as much respect as the famed locals. So who’s making the best non-Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany?

 
The crown may go to Castello dei Rampolla, producer of two cultish, but relatively affordable bottlings: 2004 Sammarco ($65), (65-90% Cabernet, the rest Sangiovese), and 2004 Vigne d’Alceo ($165), (typically 85% Cabernet, the rest Petit Verdot or sometimes Sangiovese). Of Super-Tuscan producers, none are more soulful and genuine than those made by this low-tech operation. Despite the flavor profile that calls to mind Pauillac and Graves with its tobacco, mineral, and cedar, these are unmistakably Tuscan, which is something to try to wrap your head and palate around.

 
As 2004 was an ideal vintage in Tuscany, it makes sense to pay attention to the best. A recently-consumed bottle of the 1985 Sammarco proves these wines age beautifully and gracefully…if you can keep from pulling the corks. So add Castello dei Rampolla to your short-list of Tuscan go-tos. Dare I say they speak more of Tuscany than many Brunellos out there.

A few months ago, I attended an Italian wine trade event that showcased a regional snapshot of the country’s many diverse growing districts. My mission for this tasting was to sample oddities that I don’t necessarily taste on a regular basis. One can't comprehend Italian wines in all their glory by drinking only Barolo and Brunello. With this in mind, I gravitated to the Southern Italian section of the tasting and stumbled onto my dark horse find for 4Q of ’07 and also my favorite winery duo of the tasting - Vestini Campagnano.

The two varietals that I tasted from this winery are native to the province of Caserta, north of Naples. Vestini’s tandem one-two-punch showcases Pallagrello, one of the few ancient vines that has both a white and red version that was highly prized during Roman times. Pallagrello Bianco is believed to be one of the blending grapes for the Roman’s most famous wine-Falernum. Centuries later, it’s documented that Pallagrello Rosso was a favorite of Ferdinando IV, Bourbon King of the Two Sicilies, who shared it with honored guests towards the end of the Napoleonic Era. Pallagrello was all too close to extinction, if it wasn’t for two lawyer friends, Giuseppe Mancini and Alberto Barletta, who created Vestini Campagnano in the early 1990s with the mission to preserve these ancient varietals and to make world-class wines. Based on my notes and the Italian press, the owners have succeeded with high marks.

I was pleasantly surprised to find the same wines on Vinfolio’s site a few weeks ago. Good job buyers! Now it’s my job to speak the gospel and get these darlings into your hands. With over 250 Italian selections on the site, sourcing older Super Tuscans and 2004 Nebbiolo from Piedmont is perhaps the priority for the serious collector with investment in mind, but for those who want to think out of the box, Vestini Campagnano needs to be at the top of your list.

2006 Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Bianco-$34
You would be hard pressed to taste a wine that has more layers of flavor than this effort, especially for the price tag. This is not your $10.00 Pinot Grigio sipper you find in the value stacks at your local store, but a wine that has an infinite amount of superlatives that will leave you wanting another sip to figure out all that is happening on the palate. I’ll clue you in. Here’s a viscous wonder without cumbersome oak.  The bouquet and entry reveals a menagerie of candied stone fruits, ripe pineapple, citrus peel and floral white blossoms. The mid-palate and finish reveal an almond theme that hinges on fresh marzipan fused with a subtle smoky note.  The acidity on the back end cuts through the layers of cream to make your lips smack for another sip.

2004 Vestini Campagnano Pallagrello Nero-$59
The estate’s red version captures iodine and minerals from the volcanic soil that it’s grown in. This mineral edge is perfectly integrated with bombastic blackberry and boysenberry fruit, but don’t think ultra jammy Zinfandel that weighs in at 15.9% alc., but a wine with restraint of 13.5 to 13.9% alc. Like its white counterpart, this high-altitude growing grape has balanced acidity and a similar profile to the more famous Campanian cultivar, Aglianico, with a backdrop of pepper, licorice and worked leather that is encased in a healthy dose of natural tannins. These tannins are fine grained, like Bordeaux’s Cabernet based blends, and make for a wonderful alternative to let hibernate in your cellar. The 2004 effort is a baby, but if you’re driven by curiosity to try, then please decant for two hours.  The day of this trade event, the winery representative poured me a 1999 vintage from the estate that he had hiding under the table. Man o’ man, talk about a heady and remarkable nose of violets that echoed a similar fruit spectrum mentioned above with an amazing dry finish that reminded me of a classy Bordeaux or Barolo of pedigree.

I first heard about the greatness of the 2004 vintage in Piedmont a few years ago when Italian importers began bringing in the fresh and crisp Arneis bottlings from the Roero hills. I was thrilled by the overall balance of fruit and acidity in these aromatic whites. This was a precursor for great things to come. The next wave of wines that I tasted, noting the overall pedigree, was the wave of Dolcettos and Barberas that were starting to hit the market. Perfetto!! Both un-oaked, entry level versions to the single vineyard designates dressed in flashy oak have put me in a state of gastronomic wellness. In the back of my mind, I realized that there would be a treasure trove of spectacular Nebbiolo from the esteemed the villages of Barbaresco and Barolo to follow.

The Piedmont harvest in 2004 was marred by heavy winter rains. Although welcomed after the hot and dry 2003 season, there was all out concern for delayed bud break and early attacks of downy mildew in the vineyards. The summer was picture perfect, with moderate temperatures, allowing for the vine to develop normally. Then September and early October was noted by seasonally high temperatures and days of full sunshine allowing for growers to wait for the opportune time to pick at perfect ripeness.  Many veteran vintners couldn’t remember a vintage like this one since 1990 and perhaps the legendary 1964 vintage. Growers who maintained low yields were rewarded for their hard work for a vintage in which the international wine community is running out of superlatives to describe. Winemakers were enthralled by the quality, purity, balance and intensity that the vintage produced.

Fast forward to fourth quarter 2007: Vinfolio announces the first release of cru classé Nebbiolo from the village of Barbaresco. Let’s get excited here! The fleet of Barbaresos are similar to 2001, but with more generosity of fruit and finesse that you should expect from this village.  2004 Barolo from all reports is lining up to be a classic, and must have for the serious collector and budding collector wanting to expand into a classic age-worthy category. The vintage showcases wines with loads of ripe fruit that is both concentrated and floral. Tannin levels are more present compared to let’s say the noted 2000 vintage; however, they are rounder and more finely integrated as a finish product. Vinfolio will start posting pre-arrival confirmations on the 2004 Barolo releases starting in early winter and spring 2008. Please e-mail me at neil@vinfolio.com, if you want to receive e-mail alerts on incoming 2004 selections.

2004 Barbaresco and Barolo should be on every collector’s priority list. For the Piedmont enthusiast or even newbie, I highly recommend purchasing more entry level 2004 Langhe Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barberas to drink now. Collectors should note that the overall quality of Barbaresco and Barolo will allow for cellar age-ability for at least 7 to 15 years of time.

Please note a few highlights of the vintage that have posted in our wine store in the last month:

2004 Domenico Clerico ‘Langhe Arte’    $44.00-750ml, (AG 90)
A 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Barbera assemblage all dressed up for the party! A modern interpretation seasoned new French barrique. The fruit is sourced from noted Monforte d’Alba crus of Ginestra, Pajana and Bussia. A great cellar buy if you want to keep in budget!

2004 Ronchi Barbaresco            $37.00-750ml & $82.00-1.5L (VF 92)
This is too tempting to drink now at a steal of a price! Although an infant, this wine is already silky and voluptuous out of the gate. You’ll want to supersize to the magnum format.

2004 Ceretto Barbaresco ‘Bricco Asili’    $119.00- 750ml & $245.00-1.5L (WA 94)
Bricco Asili was the first Ceretto holding that dates back to 1973. 2004 has enough violets on the nose to make your head spin in amazement!

2004 Vietti Barbaresco ‘Masseria’        $84.95-750ml & $185.00-1.5L (WA 93)
Castiglione Falletto powerhouse Vietti produces a barrage of great wines, however the ‘Masseria’ multiple personality of elegance on the nose paired with intensity of espresso, sweet pipe tobacco and black licorice makes for an intriguing acquisition!

In a hot vintage like 2003, people tend to assume wines aren’t going to be agreeable, balanced and that wines might be disjointed or as hot as the respective summer. The ripeness achieved in such vintages can certainly be overt and challenging when handled by those lacking deftness in their winemaking, but skilled producers can almost always achieve success.

Freakish weather makes for atypically-styled wines, but use this to your advantage. The 2003 Barolos and Barbarescos have rich fruit and can be drunk very early in their lives, while vintages such as 1996, 1999, 2001 are babies and require years of beauty sleep. There is plenty of wonderful Nebbiolo fruit to be had in 2003 and particularly with the more traditional producers, don’t be afraid to lay some of these bottles down either. Vinfolio’s buying team is tasting through offerings from the vintage and bringing in only the finest examples. I’ve tried the Damilano, Spinetta, Scavino, Vietti, and Cavallotto wines so far, and they are noteworthy in their quality. If you want one of the best, for safe aging, or a sexy near-term Nebbiolo experience, the Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia (94 WA) $89 shouldn’t be missed. This wine is a stunner.

What with the stellar 2001s and 2004s that stand to benefit from cellar aging and the disappointing 2002s, I would like to offer the argument that the more value-oriented of the 2003 Piedmontese wines most greatly reward current drinking. I recently enjoyed Aldo Conterno’s 2003 Langhe Quartetto ($26) to unwind after watching a tension-inducing vampire movie. A novel blend composed mostly of the traditional Nebbiolo with 25% each of Cab and Merlot, and a splash of Barbera with each vinified individually, this medium-bodied wine was a striking blood red at the core with a slightly watery rim. I initially perceived an aroma eerily reminiscent of the dark, juicy, warm plums picked from my childhood backyard, followed by sleek black leather and blood-dampened earth. Ok, perhaps the movie was still on my mind. Easily quaffable and simply pleasurable, the Quartetto displayed a notably modern winemaking style without disregard for its venerable terroir. It was also enjoyable the following evening with braised short ribs.

I have a love affair with Aglianico [ah-LYAH-nee-koh]! Maybe it’s my nonconformist attitude of branching out to uncommon growing regions that deserve the spotlight. Perhaps it’s that I need more variety in my life. For Italian wine enthusiasts, Agliancio might be familiar, but usually mentioned as an afterthought to Sangiovese from Tuscany and Nebbiolo from Piedmont. Well, the 'Aglianco Renaissance' is alive and well, establishing itself as the banner grape varietal of Southern Italy. Campania and Basilicata lay claim to the finest Aglianico with new plantings popping up in neighboring Puglia and even in Sicily. The grape is believed to have originated in Greece, but it was the Phoenicians who were responsible for its arrival, first into Basilicata and then later migrating into Campania. The name is derived from 'Ellenico,' one of the Italian adjectives to indicate of 'Greek' origin.  Aglianico was famous in the ancient world for the production of 'Falernum,' an ancient wine that was highly prized by Roman nobility and the literary community.

The vine was almost wiped out from both phylloxera and a poor economy in the late 19th and early 20th century with only a band of a few family estates willing to tend to the ancient vine.  The house of Mastroberardino based in Avellino is credited for the revival of the varietal in the late 1960s. Back then and even today, the finest Campanian Aglianico is sourced from the village of Taurasi, the only D.O.C.G. village classification in the region. The wines of Taurasi are long lived and have similar ageing qualities to Piedmont’s Nebbiolo found in the esteemed villages of Barolo and Barbaresco. I highly recommend Italian collectors to make room for some Taurasi in their cellars. These wines can age gracefully for 5 to 15 years. I have tasted well-aged Taurasi and it’s memorable for its silky layers of dried dark fruits, leather and tobacco.

Today, Aglianco production has doubled from the late 1970s and some very impressive and approachable versions may be found in the D.O.C.s of Avellino, Irpinia and Taburno with affordable price tags to boot. Genetically, Aglianico has a high tannin and acid component, which makes for a great cellar-worthy wine, comparable to great Nebbiolo. Younger vine versions are made in a softer style emphasizing primary fruit. Beyond its chemical makeup, Aglianco on the palate opens up to primary fruits of blackberries, black cherries, black currants followed by nuances of smoky tar, tobacco, licorice and coffee-espresso notes. Aglianico deserves slow roasted or braised meat dishes. However, a grilled burger or favorite steak preparation can pair marvelously with a younger, fruitier rendition.

Vinfolio is proud to feature three 100% Aglianicos and five Aglianico inspired blends from Campania, geared more for the cellar. The 2001s listed on the site can be enjoyed now, but I do recommend aerating for a solid 90 minutes in a decanter. Leg of Lamb anyone? Below are four of my highest recommendations!

2001 Caggiano - Taurasi Vigna Macchia dei Goti ($39, IWC 94)
Fasten your seat belts for an Aglianico tour de force … vigorous but elegant. Taurasi at an attractive price!

2003 Masseria Felicia  - Falerno del Massico ($62)
The Falerno del Massico D.O.C. is north of Naples, not far from Vesuvius. Old-vine Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso (20%) are grown on volcanic ash. Maybe one of the most profuse violent blossom noses I've come across of any Italian wine.

2003 Galardi - Terra di Lavoro ($115)
The Galardi estate is based in the high volcanic hills of Sessa Aurunca in northwestern Campania, north of Naples. 80% of the blend is Aglianico rounded out with native Piedirossso and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Gambero Rosso guide honored the 2003 with the highest rating of three glasses. Worth every penny!

2001 Terredora di Paolo – Taurasi ($41, Vinfolio 92)
Campania’s largest producer and vineyard owner made an ethereal Taurasi in 2001. An extremely balanced wine in its youth! The featured offering goes beyond appellation regulations by ageing the wine for 30 months in French barrique and another 18 months in bottle.

I had some old friends over on Wednesday for a tasting of several bottles of Brunello di Montalcino, a region that has lately been of great interest to this particular group. We sampled (2) 2001s, (2) 1997s and a 100% Sangiovese Super-Tuscan as a ringer – all tasted blind.

The 1997s stole the show. I’ve recently been tasting examples from this intriguing and controversial vintage. For such a well-established region, it seems there’s no consensus on the overall quality of the 1997s – while one reviewer heralds the vintage as one of the best ever, another declares it lackluster. When opinions are across the board, there’s only one way to find out.

The two 1997s we tried were the Greppone Mazzi by Ruffino ($69) and the Argiano ($75). Both were excellent, but rather different. The Greppone Mazzi was the overall favorite of the evening, since it was the most mature, complex and expressive. Dark red and black fruits as well as beautiful earthy mushroom and tobacco notes is what this wine’s all about. Full-bodied, balanced and long, it has the stuffing to last at least 5 more years. The Argiano was a close second by a hair. I think it’s a slightly better wine overall, but is not quite at its peak. It has great concentration, impeccable balance and is truly a complete wine with an enormously bright future. Because it’s still on the upswing of its evolution, it didn’t flaunt as much plumage as the Greppone Mazzi, but will out-class it in time. It’s funny. One reviewer scored the Argiano at 96 points, another at 87. I now know with whom my opinion aligns.