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I cooked up a really fun, easy, and delicious pairing for the hot weather we had this weekend. I rubbed raw tuna steaks with a light cracked pepper crust and seared the steaks in a smoking hot cast iron pan quickly on all sides leaving them rare in the middle. After I let the tuna rest for a couple of minutes, I sliced the steaks into strips serving them on a large platter drizzled with a roasted red pepper cream sauce and garnished with lightly dressed mixed greens and pickled ginger. It was a hit and a delicious pairing with the 2007 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose. The Bandol Rose was fresh and brimming with red berry fruit, subtle herbal notes, and a hint of spice.  Since the 2007 is a touch more bitter than the 2006, it worked well to round out your palate balancing the meatiness of the tuna and the richness of the roasted red pepper cream sauce.

 

How many times have you been out to dinner and not ordered from the wine list because the markups were outrageously high? How many times have you ordered wine by the glass and paid the same for that glass as the entire bottle would cost at retail? Well that happens to me more frequently than I would like. It’s not that I’m cheap or don’t have the money to afford the wine, or that I feel restaurants aren’t entitled to make money through their wine program, because they are – it’s that I don’t like the feeling of being gouged, and I assume you don’t either. I’m obviously not the only person with restaurant wine pricing on the mind, based on the 90 responses to James Laube’s blog post "Help Wanted: What’s Fair with Restaurant Wine Pricing" on Wine Spectator online. Restaurants today routinely do themselves a huge disservice by charging too high of a margin per bottle, when they could easily make up the difference in volume with lower margins. They just don’t get it. 

Luckily I live in California where there is the option to bring your own wine to restaurants and pay a corkage fee. Savvy wine people here can do their homework, look at the wine list and menu prior to dining out, and decide whether or not to bring their own wines to the restaurant. This isn’t a luxury that most states allow, so the typical diner is held hostage by the restaurant’s wine list and exorbitant markups. Neither alternative is optimal in my opinion. In most cases, if the wine list is interesting and varied, I would much prefer to sample the restaurant’s offerings, than to bring my own. Furthermore, I would be much more inclined to order a second bottle if the price was reasonable (not more the 2 to 2-1/2 times retail). Dining out is one of life’s great loves for me, and in most cases I prefer the accompanying beverage to be wine – not a beer or cocktail…but steep markups are taking that fun away from me.  

Here are a few names of restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area that have great, eclectic wine lists at very reasonable markups: Plumpjack, A16, NOPA, and Park Chow.

A few weeks ago my husband and I celebrated my birthday with a dinner at Cyrus in Healdsburg. As we had previously enjoyed the inventive cocktails and wines at the bar, we were anxious to try the full cuisine in the dining room. On our last visit bartender Scott Beattie had impressed us with a “Rubarbtini”, one of his many libations that use seasonal and locally-sourced fruits and herbs. Since it was early May, we wondered which seasonal dishes chef Douglas Keane would feature on the dinner menu. Below are our selections for a three-course meal:

Canapés and an Amuse Bouche
These nibbles stimulated the palate with contrasting elements of flavor, temperature, and texture.

NV Agrapart & Fils Brut “Terroirs” Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru                            

Similar to: NV Lancelot-Royer - Blanc de Blancs Cuvee des Chevaliers ($44)   

This crisp, lean sparkler was made from Chardonnay sourced from grand cru vineyards in Avize. Although I typically prefer blanc de blancs from le Mesnil, this champagne had a lovely balance of acidity and nutty creaminess that paired well with the canapés. 

First Course

Thai Marinated Lobster with Avocado, Mango and Hearts of Palm              

Roasted Beets with Mandarins and Pistachios

The citrus garnishes made the first course particularly refreshing, while the beet and nut combination gave a slightly earthier component.

2006 Paul Pernot Puligny Montrachet ($40)                                                      

This young Puligny showed notes of lemon, crisp acidity and subtle oak. This wine selection highlighted the bright flavors in the first course. 

Second Course

Crispy Poussin with Fava Beans and Morels, Thyme Jus                              

Lamb Loin with Black Rice, Haricot Verts, Capers and Raisins

I simply loved the crispy Poussin, a spring chicken, sourced from a farm in nearby Sonoma. It was extremely tender, dripping in its own juice and thyme, but cooked perfectly to give its skin a contrasting crunch. The lamb was a heartier dish that emanated earthy, meaty flavors which paired nicely with the spicy dark fruit character of the St Joseph wine pairing.

2004 J.L. Chave Saint-Joseph Offerus                                                           
Similar to: 2004 Saint Cosme - Saint Joseph ($32)

On the nose this classic Rhone Syrah displayed notes of olive, lavender, and grilled meats. It had a rich dark color with concentrated flavors of red and black fruits such as plum, red currant and blackberry.

Third Course

Artisanal and Farmhouse Cheeses with Breads, Fruits, and Accompaniments

Chocolate Malt Ice Cream, Butterfinger, Chocolate Almond Croquette

The desserts provided the final touches on the meal, from the creamy texture of triple cream cheese to the cooling sensations of chocolate malt.

Mignardises

The final dessert cart offered a selection of fruit candies, homemade marshmallows, and chocolates.

Our meal at Cyrus was extremely well-balanced and executed with keen attention to detail. I look forward to returning in another season to try new dishes from a different flavor perspective and explore more of the selections from their international wine list.

When planning your trip to Napa Valley, you’ve probably checked off of your list every dinner you’re planning to have, although you may not have considered where to enjoy your lunch. The best kept "secret" is brunch at Redd in Yountville (secret because not many gourmands have experienced it yet). 

Chef Richard Reddington has grown to great acclaim from years of honing his skills in both France and the Bay area. His style is as he describes it, "Napa Valley Food" - fresh, seasonal, and scrumptious. In my mind it beats dinner, allowing for a quieter atmosphere and brighter ambiance when the sun is streaming through the front windows.

I recommend starting with a glass of bubbly, such as the Egly-Ouriet Brut Prestige. Make sure to order some doughnut holes for the table at the time of the wine order. They’ll come piping hot to the table with chocolate, caramel, and raspberry dipping sauces. A stunning start. The highlight for brunch for me is a sashimi of hamachi served over sticky rice with edamame and lime ginger sauce. Other stunners are the breakfast pizza (you can ask to substitute smoked salmon for the prosciutto), huevos rancheros (traditional with chorizo), a lobster club sandwich with bacon and lemon aioli, and the caramelized diver scallops with cauliflower purée and balsamic reduction. For dessert, my top take is the peanut butter – milk chocolate Gianduja (a Swiss hazelnut chocolate confection), served with a peanut honeycomb parfait.

A nicely balanced Kistler Chardonnay will blend with most of the menu. With the meats, which are not overly hearty, a proper pinot will do. Go California with the Brewer Clifton or some Etude from Carneros. Corton le Rognet if you want some Burgundy for the table. Buy some bottles from Vinfolio to take with you. Corkage is nominal. Try it out and make a day of it, with a few winery visits in Rutherford as well (limos recommended). When you’ve finished, please reply to this blog and tell me if I was spot on with the suggestion.
 

2000 Egly-Ouriet - Brut Prestige Millesime $105

2003 Kistler – Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (IWC 93, WS91) $84

2001 Kistler – Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (IWC 95, WS 91) $89

1993 Ambroise, Bertrand – Corton Le Rognet (WA 90, WS 91) $125

2005 Brewer-Clifton – Pinot Noir Rio Vista Vineyard (WA 93) $47

2005 Etude – Pinot noir Temblor Vineyard Estate (VF 93) $60

 

As my husband, who hails from Southern France, put up a new awning in our back garden to provide some much needed shade from the heat, I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to open a rosé with dinner that reminded him of home. Since I had recently raided the Vinfolio wine store to stock up on my favorite summer whites and rosés, we thought we’d do a little taste test. I found a spicy crab and preserved lemon pasta dish in the recent issue of Gourmet.  It has some bold elements which call for a rosé with character and a little more weight, so we decided to test the three rosés I had brought home to see which paired best.

The wines:

2006 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Beaux de Provence Rosé ($9.94 on sale)
Discreet nose of red fruits with a hint of floral, lively acidity and a delicate dry finish. This wine was more enjoyable on its own as a refreshing pre-dinner sipper. It had a hard time holding up to the Asian spice in the sauce and showing its own throughout the dish.

2006 Mourgues du Gres Les Galets Rosés, Costieres de Nimes, VF 90 ($9.50 on sale)
Deep rose color with bright cherry and red fruits on the nose – very aromatic, more full-bodied on the palette with a smooth finish. The soft lush fruit really held up against the spice but could have used a little more acidity to cleanse the palette at the end. We liked this wine on its own and with the dish.

Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé (currently out of stock)
Very pale rosé color; subtle hints of strawberry and red currant - a more structured wine with good acidity and a polished, dry finish. This was the best match to the dish. It had enough fruit to counterbalance the spice and great acidity that held up all the way through, bringing out the subtleties of the dish like the sweet/salty flavor of the preserved lemon. This wine was made for food and was less interesting on its own.

Given the recent popularity of rosé, I think it is worth trying out a few to get an idea of whether you want the "summer sipper" or a well-made classic like Bandol to serve with an elegant summer meal.  There are so many regions and varietals to choose from; you really need to taste what is out there.  

Late spring marks Outdoor BBQ Season even though some parts of the country are waiting for the thaw! Serious BBQ deserves well thought-out wine pairings to meld with bold flavors from spicy shrimp on the barbee, to dry-rubbed pulled pork. BBQ preparations are not just about the US, though. Let’s face it, the grill is a cook’s tool of choice worldwide! The popularity of Korean BBQ or Jamaican Jerk Chicken can’t be denied. Why not think outside of the box and travel the globe when making savvy wine pairings? Be creative, but follow proven pairing tips.  

• Stick with whites and reds that display forward fruit on the palate but not cloying sweetness. Spice and a touch of sweetness go a long way in the pairing equation!

• Choose table and sparkling wines that are naturally higher in acid. Assertive flavors need cleansing acidity to provide a natural balancing act.

• Avoid high alcohol wines. Extra spice and high octane can be cumbersome! There are some exceptions, such as Californian Zinfandel, which sometimes teeters on 17% alcohol. Just make sure you’re sipping the old-vine with gobs of berry fruit!

• Toasty oak should be in the chip form for your smoker, not in the bottle. Zesty foods will only make your wine taste like a 2x4! Oak should be minimal; wines fermented in stainless steel are favored.

• Tannic reds should be left in your cellar to mellow! Think light to medium-bodied reds, which translate into lower alcohol wines that are more versatile for food pairing.

When it comes to pairing wines with BBQ, I have trouble sitting still in my home state of California, especially with the diversity of flavor possibilities out there! So let’s take a ride through some ideal matches!

Papaya-Jalapeno Glazed Mahi Mahi - A crisp white with ample fruit and zest are critical here. I love to turn to Italy for an array of native cultivar, from Prosecco to Falanghina. Italian whites maybe the most under-appreciated white category in the world.

NV Sorelle Bronca - Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Veneto, Italy ($15) - Prosecco makes for a wonderful budget-beater, usually coming below $15 per bottle. The Sorrelle makes for the perfect palate cleanser.

2006 Ca Dei Frati - Lugana I Frati, Veneto, Italy ($20) - Lugana is a noble clone of Trebbiano and has more length and body than many others, with all the mouth-watering acidity expected from this high acid varietal.

Slow & Low Cooked Pulled Pork - BBQ enthusiasts always have a good recipe for slow-cooked Pork Shoulder and Pork Butt in their arsenal. I find Spanish Tintos versatile and ideal companions where savory spice meets tender melt in your mouth shredded meat.

2005 Maurodos – Prima Tinto, Toro, Spain ($18) - Many Tintos from Toro can be too hard edged, but the Prima goes to the head of the class for accessibility, steering away from heavy oak. The sweet and spicy core of Tempranillo and Grenache fruit ranks high for personality and flavor.

2004 Pago Alto Landon – Manchuela, Castilla y Leon, Spain ($29) - The Manchuela D.O. is coming on strong for its blends. Bold, dark black fruit flavors coat the palate to finish with silky and supple notes.

Flank Steak with Chimichurri Sauce - “Barons of the Grill” always get inspired by this Argentine classic! Chimichurri Sauce brings on that piquant element that makes you want a few more slices. I find that Montepulciano from the Marche in S.E. Italy and Argentine Malbec are perfect steak wines, as they can handle the fresh herbal and vinegar notes of the Chimichurri.

2005 Nicodemi – ‘Notari’ Montepulciano d'Abruzzo ($15) - You want hearty flavors from your Italian varietals? Well, move over Sangiovese! Montepulciano from Abruzzo has made strides in the last twenty years. The Nicodemi Notari delivers the goods with a brooding meatiness that matches a meat lover’s appetite.

2005 Mendel – Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($23) - This 100% Malbec typifies the category! A lot of boldness for the price, and its dark saturated hue means all business without the clumsy new oak! Elements of smoke and supple blackberry in the core are a winning formula to handle the grill marks.

Hawaiian Hoisin-Glazed Baby Back Pork Ribs - I worked in restaurants in Hawaii for several years and these ribs top any pupu menu list. A super-spicy BBQ rib will be too hot for most reds, but the Hosin glaze has some restraints without losing the flavor. Big, jammy fruit notes are needed for this pairing!

2006 Broc - Vine Starr Red, California ($25) - A Zinfandel blend (67% Zin, 30% Syrah, 2% Petite Sirah & 1% Mourvedre) that packs it in with oodles of boysenberry and cranberry notes. A no brainer for Pork Ribs!

2006 Teusner – Joshua, Barossa Valley, Australia ($24) - The land of Oz has a treasure trove of perfect pairing BBQ wines, but be careful with renditions that have new oak. The Teusner Joshua doesn’t see an ounce and we like it that way! Close your eyes and you might think you’re drinking a Cotes du Rhone on steroids! The cuvee is comprised of 65% Grenache, 25% Mataro and 10% Shiraz. The dark and expressive black and blue fruit laced with pepper makes for an afternoon BBQ delight!

Some of my most memorable meals have been Tasting Menus – wine-pairing dinners in which I’ve turned the reins over to the sommelier to lead me in pairing directions that I probably wouldn’t have traveled on my own, and I can honestly say that I’ve never been disappointed. I’m a big fan of variety, and pairing menus offer just that. Last weekend my wife, some friends, and I spent a wonderful Saturday evening dining at the fine restaurant La Toque, in Rutherford (Napa Valley). Each of us ordered the wine pairing with the 5-course tasting menu. We unanimously agreed that the meal and the wine pairings could not have been better. The sommelier, Scott Tracy, was extremely knowledgeable on the wines he was serving, and explained the provenance of each one prior to pouring. Here is the menu for that night along with the wine pairings. I’ve included Vinfolio selections that can easily substitute for each pairing wine. Perhaps you will be inspired to create your own wine-pairing meal at home!

Substitute: 2005 Terlano - Pinot Bianco Vorberg

Substitute: 2006 Knoll, Emmerich - Gruner Veltliner Ried Loibenberg Smaragd

Substitute: 2006 Vieux Donjon - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc

Substitute: 2005 Maldonado - Chardonnay Los Olivos Vineyard

Substitute: 2004 Fiddlehead - Pinot Noir 728 Fiddlestix Vineyard

Substitute: 2006 Sineann - Pinot Noir Covey Ridge Vineyard

Substitute: 2004 Phelps, Joseph - Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard

Substitute: 2006 Hirsch - Pinot Noir Estate

Substitute: 2006 Ojai - Viognier Ice Wine Roll Ranch

On a beautiful, sunny day in January I decided to spend some well-deserved R&R in Half Moon Bay and Pescadero with my miniature schnauzer Pinot Noir. The plan was an afternoon of hiking on the beach, enjoying the sunset on the links of the Ritz Carlton, and then having an early dinner at Duarte’s Tavern. I have been enormous fan of this historic restaurant in the sleepy town of Pescadero since a good friend of mine first introduced me to it almost ten years ago. Located between Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz, its specialties are of course artichokes and the freshest seafood, as well as Harley Farms goat cheese, (made by Dee Harley, Tim Duarte’s wife.)

The sourdough is always served piping; in fact if you sit at the counter, you may even catch a glimpse of Ron, the fourth-generation Duarte to be working at this landmark establishment, pulling the rounds right out of the oven!  Tim, his son, can also be spotted in the kitchen nine times out of ten.

Depending on the season, and of course my mood, my top picks for a main course are as follows:

Dungeness Crab: as a native Californian, it is imperative to partake of the crab whenever it is in season. When it is this sweet and melts in your mouth, how could you say no?

Crab Cioppino: a true San Francisco tradition, though not even in the City have I had one better.

Abalone Sandwich: very lightly breaded and served on true San Francisco sourdough with lemon; it is just steps from heaven.

They also have a Mexican coleslaw with cabbage from their own garden, cilantro, jalepeno peppers, and lime juice, and not a drop of mayonnaise in sight. After a long afternoon with Pinot, it was just the right amount of crisp, nutritious veggies to balance out the half cream of artichoke and half cream of green chili soup (another Duarte’s must-have) and the abalone sandwich. Of course being a “quasi-regular” for a few years, I knew to order my slice of olallieberry pie in advance. If you have no room after the generous portions, they are more than willing to pack it up to go. A little hint, even if you do have room for pie, order a second slice, as it makes for a fantastic breakfast the next morning! 

This being Pescadero, the wine list is pretty Santa Cruz Mountain-centric, but includes selections from Santa Barbara Coast, and some Napa, Sonoma and French. I started with a 2005 Navarro Sauvignon Blanc. Its acidity cut through the two different soups perfectly, and the herbaceous and green apple quality married nicely as well. This was followed by the 2004 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis “Réserve Sainte Victoire”. A classic ‘04 with lovely minerality, and a hint of lime pithe and green fruit; it made a perfect foil for the abalone and cole-slaw. Multiple layers of white blossoms, pear, and a hint of honey combined with elegance and length to make this a lovely pairing. After such a wonderful meal, I decided not to push my luck, so I took my pie to-go.

Duart’s Tavern, a James Beard Award winner for Classic American cuisine, is the quintessential small-town tavern with seasonal decorations from the ‘50s covering the walls for all of the major holidays, an inviting staff, and truly some of the freshest seafood (selected every morning by Ron) I have ever experienced. Whether you are a regular or a first-timer, this warm and inviting family-owned and operated tavern will have you trying to find more reasons to drive down Highway 1 just to stop by for a quick bite.

I faced a dilemma of epic proportions…pulled pork, tri-tip or smoked sausage. At the Beach Pit BBQ in Costa Mesa (SoCal - a.k.a. The O.C.), they serve a mean array of grilled flesh with one of the best tangy, spicy sauces I’ve had. Finally deciding (sliders – one of each) presented me with another quandary. What the heck was I going to drink with all this hot, meaty goodness? Dad (whose genes I am convinced have a great deal to do with my wine tasting affinity) came to the rescue. With a wry smile, Dad quipped “I know how much you love Chateauneuf-du-Pape.”  Yes, well, and that love knows no limits, as I am sure he was remembering the time I drank his last bottle of 1989 Beaucastel ($235) during a weekend home from college. Youthful trangressions forgotten, he graciously proffered the Monpertuis 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Classique" ($33/750ml or $21/375ml) for my dining pleasure.  Now this is a wine that is made for hearty, flavor-spiked, spice-laden fare. It starts out with a pure, racy, juicy Grenache-driven palate that seduces you with spicy herb and pepper laced-up with strawberry and raspberry fruit. With in-your-face food we were eating/wearing, this elegance transcended its humble bottle persona and expressed such complementary trappings that we were into bottle number two before we knew it. This is simply beautiful, pure Rhone complexity, round and reasonable with immediate gratification its only goal.

Doesn’t quite rhyme, but you get the drift - a perfect combination for a Saturday afternoon enjoying the beautiful weather in San Francisco with Champagne and caviar.  As with all great food and wine, the timing of when, where and with whom, makes all the difference in the world when it comes to those special memories.

After abandoning my snow shovel in Boston last fall to move to San Francisco, I thought the nonstop January rain would never end.  Thankfully for me, this has all changed. This past Saturday I had a good friend come into town from the Sacramento area that was in desperate need for some San Francisco sophistication, shopping and great food.  

Of course we had to shop, but the highlight of the day was taking a much needed break at Absinthe Brasserie and Bar in the Hayes Valley for an afternoon glass of wine and a light snack.  We scored a great table outside and decided on an ounce of Osetra caviar and some NV Henriot Brut Champagne.

Henriot is a top Champagne producer from the Reims area in Champagne.  They are known for their quality and fresh style.  Part of this comes from the fact that they use only very small quantities, if any, of Pinot Meunier and, a higher concentration than most, of Chardonnay.  As an example, the Non-Vintage Brut is composed of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir.  Currently we have the '96 Vintage Henriot in stock in 750ml ($66) and magnum ($139), both of which are a fantastic value for the money.

The saltiness of the caviar and champagne, the weight of the wine combined with the weight of the blini’s and caviar.  What can I say, a fine mousse, crisp, fresh, complex and last but least…….elegant. Of course we didn’t want to ruin our dinner at Spruce; I’ll save that for another blog!

A little while back a group of friends decided to celebrate the holidays at my favorite restaurant south of San Francisco, Manresa.  This fabulous place is named after the medieval town in Catalonia and gets much of the cuisine’s inspiration from that region as well as from the European classics and local biodynamic farming.  David Kinch, the Executive Chef, has worked at famous restaurants throughout the world from the Quilted Giraffe in New York, to Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain and everywhere in between and has a style all his own—he created my favorite amuse-bouche in the US, a coddled egg with foie gras, maple syrup and caviar.  What a way to start any meal.  I could certainly do it for breakfast, lunch, AND dinner.

When we first arrived in the private room we were all presented with a glass of Non-Vintage Drappier Val des Demoiselles. It has a wonder balance of fruit and acidity. On the palate, there was a hint of cassis.  This Champagne has lovely freshness, with a breath of toastiness and great length.  Once we were all seated, we were treated to Kobe-style American Beef and Oyster Tartar.  Though I have experienced Manresa on numerous occasions, this dish was a new one me and what a treat!  The marriage between the two very distinct flavors was absolutely superb and it virtually melted in my mouth.  Our second amuse was a daring Kohlrabi and Foie Gras Royale demonstrating Chef Kinch’s knack for blending very different textures with outstanding results.

Our first course consisted of Monterey Bay Spot Prawns on the Planch with exotic Indian spice.  The prawns were so sweet and creamy they melted in my mouth; the sauce had fantastic cumin and coriander; and the combination was very fresh and light as there was no cream to weigh it down at the beginning of the meal.  This delectable dish was served with a 2006 Diatom Huber Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills.  It had a hint of herbaceousness and green papaya.  The 100% malolactic fermentation was certainly apparent and it had a fairly pronounced buttery character.  It was a bit green on the palate, with good acidity, balance, and length.  It was a lovely pairing with the prawns as there was also a good deal of lychee and exotic fruit as well.

This being December in the Bay Area, our next treat was of course Dungeness Crab prepared in a risotto with black truffles.  For those of you who are unaware, we had an oil spill occur in the San Francicsco Bay just before Thanksgiving.  It closed beaches and delayed the official beginning of Crab Season by several weeks.  But good things certainly come to those who wait.  The crab was so sweet, the risotto creamy and cooked to perfection, and who could ever look down their noses at black truffles from Perigord?  To accompany this delectable dish we had a 2002 Gros Frère et Soeur Vosne-Romanée.  With its beautiful ruby color, it was a classic Vosne-Romanée with hints of violettes and that traditional "barnyard" (and I do mean that in the best sense) aroma.  A perfect Côte de Nuits, the wine was lovely and elegant with great acidity and length.  It the end it was the red berry and tobacco that lingered the most.

Our next course was the Guinea Hen poached and then roasted with Winter Vegetable and Citrus.  This was the perfect dish for a cold winter evening with friends.  The hen was rich and moist while the hearty root vegetables were still kept light and savory with the help of the citrus.  This memorable course was accompanied by the 2004 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands.  It had a dark ruby hue and a nose that was all cherry and mint.  There was a good deal of acidity to this Pinot and very fresh for a '04.  The finish had lots of sweetness and a gentle hint of melted brown sugar.

Our main course was an amazing Roast Beef with Yellowfoot Mushrooms and Crushed Potatoes with Horseradish.  The beef was beautifully roasted – just the right amount of pink for me.  The potatoes were from heaven, so sweet from the caramelization accompanied by delectable mushrooms. As this course was fit for a king, we had of course the king of Napa varietals, the 2004 Hourglass Cabernet Sauvignon, out of magnum.  The deep, opaque aubergine color was amazing.  In the nose were hints of mint, black cherry, and molasses.  On the palate it was almost over the top for the scrumptious yet mild roast beef.  It had huge, mouth puckering tannins, yet the overall body and structure was still fairly restrained.   We enjoyed this wine with a selection of cheeses ranging from a French raw goat’s milk, a harder Spanish goat’s milk, to an American blue wrapped in grape leaves.  Even with the intense color and acidity, this will be a fantastic wine to cellar for a years so as to enjoy it again with prime rib at some date after 2012.  

Our dessert course consisted of Dark Chocolate Fondant and Chicory Cremeux with Caramel Bouillon and hazelnut Ice Cream.  The chicory gave a pleasing crunchy consistency as well as flavor to the dish.  The hazelnut ice cream was a dream.  I have only had its equivalent once and that was in Piedmonte, Italy!  The caramel bouillon was wonderful with elegance and beautiful balance - not too sweet, just enough.  This dish also paired well with the Hourglass.

It was a fabulous way to celebrate the holidays with my dear friends from Saratoga and the fantastic staff at Manresa:  David, the always brilliant and low-key chef, Jeff, one of my favorite wine stewards, and Esteban, the ever welcoming Maître d’hôtel.  Everyone who works at Manresa has a class and professionalism that puts them truly head and shoulders above the rest.  Thank you again Russel and Susan Perry as well as everyone at Manresa.  Happy 2008!

Gastronomically speaking, it seems anything “Spain” has been on a ten-year upswing in the States. From the success of small plate-tapas bars in urban centers, to the upsurge in the import of wines from previously unknown regions, there’s no way around it, Spain is hot! This has propelled some friends and me to host an annual Spanish Feast over the last few years. A bounty of seafood is always at the top of the menu, paired with Cava and crisp aromatic whites. We usually prep three large Paella pans (seafood, veggie and meat lovers’ paradise), with Garnacha Rosados and savory Tempranillo Jovens waiting in the wings.

Beyond the food, I take great pride in selecting the wines for the theme. There’s an immense array of options that showcase distinct native varietals from bubbly to fortified, and more often than not they are the tastiest values available. Many of the native cultivars should be enjoyed young. They are extremely food-friendly, showcasing fresh, forward fruit, backed with cleansing acidity.

At Vinfolio we try to promote some of these darlings throughout the year and our clients appreciate that we have these wines available by the case for their entertaining needs. We presently have two wines on the site that scream “Spanish Party Wine”!   

Albariño is fast becoming what New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier were in the early 1990s. Back then, there weren’t more than three or four Albarinos imported into the country. Today, the number has increased 500% if you include regions neighboring the famed Rias Baixas appellation in Galicia. Like Viognier, Albariño is aromatic, with a distinct stone fruit element rising off the nose. In most cases, the banner fruit scheme is peach backed with vibrant acidity and a twinge of minerality that will remind a wine enthusiast of German Riesling. The majority of the Albariño imported is un-oaked and tank-fermented to preserve the flowery aromatics and freshness.