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Here at Vinfolio we understandably possess great enthusiasm for scarce, legend-inspiring vinous jewels with regal reputations. I like to reserve at least a little room in my heart and cellar for under-appreciated drinking pleasures, such as those from the Cru du Beaujolais. While most are familiar with the mass-produced carbonically macerated juice typically associated with the region, quality Beaujolais is somewhat less recognized. Often bearing more resemblance to the noble Pinot Noir grown further North in Burgundy than their Gamay siblings, these wines are immediately enjoyable upon release, but given up to a decade of cellaring will reward with surprising complexity and character.

Currently Vinfolio offers for sale the old vine 2005 Guy Breton bottling from Morgon (IWC 91), arguably the most age-worthy of the 10 Beaujolais Crus. With 2005, a vintage of towering quality in Burgundy with correspondingly sky-high tariffs for most appellations, Beaujolais wines have quietly maintained their value-oriented pricing. I challenge anyone to think of another $24 bottle of wine with such enormous upside.

I have compiled a list of select "Blue Chip" Bordeaux that should be part of any serious wine collection. The featured producers are Château Haut Brion, Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Mouton-Rothschild, Château Ausone, Château Cheval Blanc, Château Petrus, and Château d’Yquem. I chose these nine châteaus for this “First Growth” report because they represent the top echelon of Bordeaux collector wines; they are what are commonly referred to as the “Big Eight” plus Château d’Yquem. The selected vintages have nearly always increased in value on the auction market because of their high demand.

With thirteen vintages listed for Château Latour, it is the estate with the most (post 1961) 95+ point vintages from Robert Parker. However, with only nine vintages, Château Lafite-Rothschild attains 100 points for five of its nine wines.  The estates with the highest average scores across three review sources (Parker, International Wine Cellar, Wine Spectator) include 2000 Margaux (RP 100, IWC 98, WS 100), 1989 Haut Brion (RP 100, IWC 97, WS 100) and 2001 Yquem (RP 100, WS 100). Other top scoring wines include 1990 Margaux, 1982 Mouton-Rothschild, (1961, 1982, 2000, 2003) Latour, 2000 Lafite-Rothschild and 1989 Petrus. As it is still early, there are not yet final scores available for the 2005 vintage wines; however, the current ranges are exceptionally high, significantly inflating that vintage’s average retail price.

Classifications
Châteaus Haut Brion, Lafite-Rothschild, Latour, Margaux, and Mouton-Rothschild (as of 1973) are classified as First Growths from the 1855 classification of Médoc (Left Bank). Château d’Yquem is the only sweet white wine to be classified as a Premier Cru Supérieur from the 1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac. In Bordeaux’s Merlot-based Right Bank, Châteaus Ausone and Cheval Blanc garnered the top classification, Premiers Grands Crus Classés A, in the 1954 classification of St. Emilion. Although Château Petrus (from Pomerol) has never been classified, it is generally considered of the same class as the established First Growths.

Analysis Parameters
The following chart includes summary data pertaining to vintages from 1961 to 2006. In order to be selected, the wine must have rated at least 95 points or more from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate or Bordeaux. Wines are listed in descending order of points from Parker. In the column headings, RP represents Robert Parker’s publications, IWC represents Steven Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, and WS represents the Wine Spectator. All scores, maturation ranges, and prices date from August 2007. Auction averages are compiled from Vinfolio’s on-line wine store (or 23nd Edition of the Wine Price File), and retail averages are compiled from wine-searcher.com as integrated into Vinfolio’s on-line wine store. All prices are based on 750 ml bottles.

As girls are known to shop, I decided to compile my own personal wish list from Vinfolio’s wine store. Over the coming years I would like to considerably expand my collection so that it represents a diverse selection of wine regions and vintages. Although I have a tendency towards the Old World, I also favor many wines from Oregon, cool-climate California and New Zealand.  

My favorite wines tend to have high acid (Champagne, Riesling, Chablis, Brunello) and reflect a sense of terroir (Burgundy, Bordeaux). I especially enjoy the influence of chalky soils in Champagne (from oyster fossils in the Kimmeridgian soil), the role of limestone and clay on Merlot in St. Emilion, the mineral notes of slate in Mosel Riesling, and the ripe, rustic quality imparted to Aglianico or Galioppo grapes by volcanic soils in southern Italy. I also love the concentrated flavors of wines whose vines have had to struggle, whether grown on a mountaintop or by restricted yields (perhaps through a green harvest). High altitude climates (Argentina), coastal breezes and ocean currents (the Benguela Current near South Africa, the Humboldt Current off Chile, and the California Current along the Pacific NW) also bring clarity and intensity of flavor. There are so many factors to producing great wine that it makes the discovery process (through tasting, of course) all the more fun!

I think a good cellar should have a mix of every day wines (albeit tasty ones) and special event, collector bottles that benefit from aging. Here is a start to my wish list, beginning in France (to be continued in later posts):

Champagne – The ideal aperitif and palate stimulant, whether white or rose.
Good value, every day favorites:
    NV Lafitte, Charles Brut Rosé $35
    NV Ruinart Brut Rosé (375ml) $35 – one of the original Champagne houses
    NV Jean Vesselle Brut Oeil de Perdrix $38 – with a beautiful salmon color
    NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition $54
    NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé $66 – a classic rosé

Luxury bubbles for special events (1990 and 1996 are especially good vintages):
    NV Krug Grande Cuvée $127 – a Champagne staple
    1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne $129 – the 1990 is also amazing
    1990 Heidsieck, Charles Brut Blanc des Millénaires $135
    1996 Pol Roger Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill $159 – so classy and brilliant
    NV Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée (1.5L) $225 – creamy and big for parties
    1990 Möet & Chandon Dom Perignon (1.5L) $850 – everyone must have Dom!
    1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil $1,065 – yes, we can dream of the ideal Grand Cru

White Burgundy – Where Chardonnay reveals minerality, clarity, and complexity.
The values:
    2005 Long-Depaquit Chablis Les Vaillons 1er Cru $25
    2005 Daniel et Martine Barraud Pouilly-Fuisse La Verchère $36
    1996 Latour-Giraud Meursault Narvaux $39 - one with some age
    2004 Long-Depaquit Chablis Blanchots $42 – a Grand Cru at an amazing price
    2000 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru $59

The collector items:
    2004 Raveneau Chablis Les Forêts 1er Cru $75 - another classic producer
    2004 Marc Colin Corton-Charlemagne $79 - this made a friend become a Burgundy believer
    2002 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne $94
    2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru $133
    2004 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet $196 - gotta love Leflaive
    2004 Comtes Lafon Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru $349
    1998 Ramonet Montrachet $599 – a true life experience
    1996 Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet $950 – ditto
    1989 Ramonet Montrachet $1,899 – we’re at the pinnacle here!

I see that my thoughts stayed with the high acid whites; next time I’ll peruse the reds. Cheers and happy collecting! What’s on your list?