As the weather changes, so do our tastes for wine and food. With warmer weather, we start enjoying lighter foods and pair them with generally lighter wines. A sunny day begs for crisp, bright, fresh Chablis. Whether steely, flinty, pure and un-oaked or with a touch of wood to round out the palate and add mouthfeel, Chablis is the perfect wine-pairing for oysters, shellfish, and white fish, and also goes well with salads, cheese, chicken, and other white meats.

Cool climate and limestone soils are responsible for the crisp, mineral, laser beam-like focus found in Chablis. Aged Chablis is a revelation for many, as its inherent acidity provides backbone for this Chardonnay to age gracefully. Depending on the vintage, premier crus can drink well in 4-6+ years and grand crus in 6-10+. Here are some quick vintage notes.  Recent Chablis vintages are drinking sooner due to riper vintages (global warming anyone?).

Vintage key points:
2002—terrific vintage and will age well, refreshing acidity and very solid Chablis, classic
2003—hot vintage, so almost California-like, very rich
2004—crisp, classic, and traditional
2005—ripe, high sugar levels and some botrytis makes the wines exotic, more ripe and more flesh than the 2004s
2006—another ripe vintage, lush and opulent. Good acidity and minerality

The 7 grand cru vineyards of Chablis face predominantly south or southwest, and are planted on steep (optimal aspect) and well-drained soils on the right bank of the river Serein. Tip: the premier crus Montee de Tonnere and Fourchaume are on the right bank and face south like the grand crus, which is critical for ripening.

Grand cru descriptions:
Blanchot: elegance, finesse, perfume, flowers, not the power and structure of others.
Bourgros or Bouguerots: least known, upfront power and generosity. Cote de Bouguerots is a steep 2ha parcel at the bottom of the vineyard farmed by hand.
Les Clos: the epitome of Chablis, power and finesse, incredible minerality and longevity.
Grenouilles: perfume in youth, minerality, elegance, the lightest of the grand crus.
Preuses: the most forward of the grand crus, approachable, round and fruity, full flavored, less subtle.
Valmur: floral, perfumed, rich and full-bodied, long lived.
Vaudesir: floral, spicy, develops nutty character, can drink in youth or with age.

Look for the top Chablis domaines:  Raveneau, Dauvissat, and William Fevre

On a beautiful, sunny day in January I decided to spend some well-deserved R&R in Half Moon Bay and Pescadero with my miniature schnauzer Pinot Noir. The plan was an afternoon of hiking on the beach, enjoying the sunset on the links of the Ritz Carlton, and then having an early dinner at Duarte’s Tavern. I have been enormous fan of this historic restaurant in the sleepy town of Pescadero since a good friend of mine first introduced me to it almost ten years ago. Located between Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz, its specialties are of course artichokes and the freshest seafood, as well as Harley Farms goat cheese, (made by Dee Harley, Tim Duarte’s wife.)

The sourdough is always served piping; in fact if you sit at the counter, you may even catch a glimpse of Ron, the fourth-generation Duarte to be working at this landmark establishment, pulling the rounds right out of the oven!  Tim, his son, can also be spotted in the kitchen nine times out of ten.

Depending on the season, and of course my mood, my top picks for a main course are as follows:

Dungeness Crab: as a native Californian, it is imperative to partake of the crab whenever it is in season. When it is this sweet and melts in your mouth, how could you say no?

Crab Cioppino: a true San Francisco tradition, though not even in the City have I had one better.

They also have a Mexican coleslaw with cabbage from their own garden, cilantro, jalepeno peppers, and lime juice, and not a drop of mayonnaise in sight. After a long afternoon with Pinot, it was just the right amount of crisp, nutritious veggies to balance out the half cream of artichoke and half cream of green chili soup (another Duarte’s must-have) and the abalone sandwich. Of course being a “quasi-regular” for a few years, I knew to order my slice of olallieberry pie in advance. If you have no room after the generous portions, they are more than willing to pack it up to go. A little hint, even if you do have room for pie, order a second slice, as it makes for a fantastic breakfast the next morning! 

This being Pescadero, the wine list is pretty Santa Cruz Mountain-centric, but includes selections from Santa Barbara Coast, and some Napa, Sonoma and French. I started with a 2005 Navarro Sauvignon Blanc. Its acidity cut through the two different soups perfectly, and the herbaceous and green apple quality married nicely as well. This was followed by the 2004 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis “Réserve Sainte Victoire”. A classic ‘04 with lovely minerality, and a hint of lime pithe and green fruit; it made a perfect foil for the abalone and cole-slaw. Multiple layers of white blossoms, pear, and a hint of honey combined with elegance and length to make this a lovely pairing. After such a wonderful meal, I decided not to push my luck, so I took my pie to-go.

Duart’s Tavern, a James Beard Award winner for Classic American cuisine, is the quintessential small-town tavern with seasonal decorations from the ‘50s covering the walls for all of the major holidays, an inviting staff, and truly some of the freshest seafood (selected every morning by Ron) I have ever experienced. Whether you are a regular or a first-timer, this warm and inviting family-owned and operated tavern will have you trying to find more reasons to drive down Highway 1 just to stop by for a quick bite.

Valdeorras is Godello country! What is Godello you may ask? Well, it’s an ancient white varietal that has laid its claim in Valdeorras since the Roman occupation. The region juts north of Portugal and east of Riaxas Baixas, in the Galicia region of N.W. Spain. The Romans were attracted to Valdeorras (Golden Valley) for its precious metals and gold mining, but like other areas they conquered, vineyards followed. This is also evident in Germany, Burgundy and the Northern Rhone. In the Middle Ages, the baton was passed to the Catholic Church, and monks played an instrumental role in fine-tuning the terraced vineyards. Fast forward to the modern era, when the once important Godello was not even mentioned in discussions of benchmark Spanish wines. It was only in the 1990s that certain mavericks, intent on preserving this ancient cultivar, were noticed by boutique American importers and the Spanish wine press.

Rafael Palacios was one of the several talented young winemakers who saw the potential of old-vine Godello from some of the steepest hillsides of Valdeorras. His Godello project launched in 2004, and the accolades keep coming in with the flagship “As Sortes” label. The grape has gained more popularity in the American market due to the effort of U.S. importers like Eric Solomon. Godello has followed in the footsteps of its “kissing cousin” Albarino, the banner grape of Rias Baixas, but not in terms of production. Some Valdeorras blends include both varietals, making for a crisp and aromatic wonder. Albarino is the most recognized white varietal of the region, and probably all of Spain. It’s user-friendly, with great aromatics and a mouthfeel similar to Viognier.  However, where there’s fame, there’s often over production. If Albarino is the poster child of Galicia, then old-vine Godello is a prince about to be king! I crave Godello for its searing minerality, which makes Albarino taste somewhat flabby and overtly fruity by comparison, especially when sipping a value-driven young-vine effort.

Palacios’ “As Sortes” bottling may be the finest Godello imported into the states. The name refers to an old Galician practice of children picking parcels’ names out of a hat during the passing of the inheritance.  I remember my first time tasting this wine in Spain back in 2005, and I still remember the overall package distinctively from the entry to finish. Want to put a sleeper into your next group tasting or seafood fest? Well, the 2006 “As Sortes” will make for a tasty impression. Mouth watering is an understatement! Just take a whiff of this and you will salivate, as the wine beckons you for another sip.  On my last trip to Galacia, my most memorable food and wine pairing experience was sipping on Godello with a simple preparation of pan-roasted razor clams. Sheer bliss … pinch me please!

Many would find spending $35 or more for a Spanish white not worth it, since you can usually find pleasant quaffers for $15 to $20. We’re not talking quaffer here, but more of a palate-changing experience. Consider the 2006 “As Sortes” based on its aromatic depth and mouthfeel. Close your eyes and you might think you’re about to wrap your lips onto a 1er Cru Puligny or Chassagne Montrachet with a hint of Riesling-esque minerality typical of a dry Austrian style. Chalk up some zesty spice and lemon peel with a dose of stone fruit. Yes, there are many superlatives here, but talk is cheap, so pick up a six-pack of this limited production old-vine white. “As Sortes”’ can age better than Albarino, and it gains more complexity with a few years of bottle age. A flavor impression, seafood-pairing champion, this Valdeorras superstar needs your love! The “As Sortes” is a must for anyone who likes classy White Burgundy!

2006 Rafael Palacios "As Sortes" ($41) IWC 92

I faced a dilemma of epic proportions…pulled pork, tri-tip or smoked sausage. At the Beach Pit BBQ in Costa Mesa (SoCal - a.k.a. The O.C.), they serve a mean array of grilled flesh with one of the best tangy, spicy sauces I’ve had. Finally deciding (sliders – one of each) presented me with another quandary. What the heck was I going to drink with all this hot, meaty goodness? Dad (whose genes I am convinced have a great deal to do with my wine tasting affinity) came to the rescue. With a wry smile, Dad quipped “I know how much you love Chateauneuf-du-Pape.”  Yes, well, and that love knows no limits, as I am sure he was remembering the time I drank his last bottle of 1989 Beaucastel ($235) during a weekend home from college. Youthful trangressions forgotten, he graciously proffered the Monpertuis 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvee Classique" ($33/750ml or $21/375ml) for my dining pleasure.  Now this is a wine that is made for hearty, flavor-spiked, spice-laden fare. It starts out with a pure, racy, juicy Grenache-driven palate that seduces you with spicy herb and pepper laced-up with strawberry and raspberry fruit. With in-your-face food we were eating/wearing, this elegance transcended its humble bottle persona and expressed such complementary trappings that we were into bottle number two before we knew it. This is simply beautiful, pure Rhone complexity, round and reasonable with immediate gratification its only goal.

Doesn’t quite rhyme, but you get the drift - a perfect combination for a Saturday afternoon enjoying the beautiful weather in San Francisco with Champagne and caviar.  As with all great food and wine, the timing of when, where and with whom, makes all the difference in the world when it comes to those special memories.

After abandoning my snow shovel in Boston last fall to move to San Francisco, I thought the nonstop January rain would never end.  Thankfully for me, this has all changed. This past Saturday I had a good friend come into town from the Sacramento area that was in desperate need for some San Francisco sophistication, shopping and great food.  

Of course we had to shop, but the highlight of the day was taking a much needed break at Absinthe Brasserie and Bar in the Hayes Valley for an afternoon glass of wine and a light snack.  We scored a great table outside and decided on an ounce of Osetra caviar and some NV Henriot Brut Champagne.

Henriot is a top Champagne producer from the Reims area in Champagne.  They are known for their quality and fresh style.  Part of this comes from the fact that they use only very small quantities, if any, of Pinot Meunier and, a higher concentration than most, of Chardonnay.  As an example, the Non-Vintage Brut is composed of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir.  Currently we have the '96 Vintage Henriot in stock in 750ml ($66) and magnum ($139), both of which are a fantastic value for the money.

The saltiness of the caviar and champagne, the weight of the wine combined with the weight of the blini’s and caviar.  What can I say, a fine mousse, crisp, fresh, complex and last but least…….elegant. Of course we didn’t want to ruin our dinner at Spruce; I’ll save that for another blog!

As part of the Collector Services team, I am often out of on the road and digging around in cellars to get them organized and inventoried. Part of what we do is bringing to the collector’s attention those wines that are drinking wonderfully now. It seems we all get so carried away with our latest purchase, newest winery release or “must have” varietals that the wines we loved just a few months or years ago are getting relegated to the deep dark corners of the cellar. We love to see clients smile when we pull out some older vintage gems they had long forgotten.

The downside to losing track of your collection is that some wines may have suffered from being hidden for too long – they are no longer something you would want to drink. We have seen some collectors throw out cases of wine because they just sat in a corner with more new cases getting stacked on top of them or new bottles racked in front. That is not only a wasted tasting opportunity, but more importantly, wasted money.

Here are some basic organizational tips to keep your collection up to date:

•  Front and Center: place the oldest vintages (same region/producer) in the display position or just above/below and work outwards with the more current vintages at the edges.  As you consume, consolidate the bottles towards the center, which will help to create room for the new vintages of that same wine or producer
•  Out of sight/Out of mind: create an area or designate a section for long-term aging wines so that you aren’t tempted to drink before they are ready.  If you can keep them in their original wood case, even better.
•  Drink Me Section: we recommend clearing a shelf, bin or column close to the cellar door for those bottles that are going to be consumed in the very short term or are fast approaching the end of their drink window.

You may find that some wines are not holding up as well as you thought, or are no longer suited to your palate. If you have large quantities of that wine, it is best to move it to this area and think about selling, donating or having a party.

Wow…two GREAT tastings in the span of 4 days.The first, La Paulee San Francisco – Grand Tasting, a Burgundian extravaganza, was held on Saturday, March 1st. This tasting showcased some of the top producers of Burgundy and their wines, mostly from the outstanding 2004 (white) & 2005 (red) vintages. The wines were sublime – definitely worth seeking out for your collection. The wine was poured by top sommeliers from around the country, and the food prepared by the who’s who of the San Francisco dining scene. I’ve already made my reservations for La Paulee next year when it returns to New York. I can’t recommend this tasting highly enough if you’re a fan of Burgundy wines or just want to learn more about them. My standout red of the tasting was the 2005 Domaine Jacques Frédéric Mugnier – Musigny.  It was showing beautifully in its youth, but I can only imagine what this wine will evolve into over the next 10-30 years.  My favorite white was the 2005 Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey - Corton-Charlemagne.  My tasting notes were simple – Intense, Rich, Apple, Vanilla, Lime, Mineral – awesome now…long life ahead.

Four days later, on Wednesday, March 5^th, Gambero Rosso put on a tasting event of current release Italian wines at the Herbst Pavilion-Ft. Mason in San Francisco. The vintages covered 2000 through 2006. I’ve tasted many wines from the Tuscany and Piedmont regions from the great 2000 and 2001 vintages, and have been more than impressed with the overall quality. I was extremely excited to taste the 2004s and see firsthand if they measured up to the hype. Short answer…THEY DID! The 2004s that I tried had incredible structure and balance, and they should not be missed!  Some of my favorites that Vinfolio currently stocks are:

2004 Felsina Berardenga - Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva, IWC 95 ($37)

2004 Felsina Berardenga - Fontalloro, IWC 94 ($44)

2004 Pupille - Saffredi, WS 97 ($109)

2004 Querciabella - Camartina,WA 95 ($87)

2004 Sette Ponti - Oreno,WS 95 ($65.95)

The Vinfolio motto of Fine Wine, Finer Service runs deep considering our company has six dedicated Wine Specialists working to make sure your account is fully serviced. Just because we’re an on-line retailer doesn’t mean we can’t give our clients the same personal service as a traditional brick n’ mortar operation.  

We offer a myriad of services for the enthusiast and collector alike, but the most enjoyable part of my day at the office is offering personal recommendations for my clients. The bottom line is that we all want to share our top picks with others who share our passions about wine. For the client, getting recommendations from a wine professional is a great way to expand the palate without being held to a reviewer’s rating system. Having the opportunity to taste allows me to make more informed decisions on what my clients will enjoy, rather than relying on another reviewer’s score.
Much of my Bay Area wine career has been spent making recommendations in a restaurant setting, or managing boutique wine stores. Just like everyone on the Vinfolio Wine Team, I encourage clients to reach out for recommendations based on budget, palate preference or gift-giving parameters. I like being able to personally take my clients on a palate tour of the world, offering many wines they hadn’t considered or even known existed. Global treasures are being imported at record levels, so think outside of the box! Bring on your requests for a mixed sampler and I’ll make sure that you come away with a satisfying experience.  Once you try the wines, give feedback so I can better understand your palate preferences. My personal gratification is always reinforced when clients share with me their own impressions of the wines.

Below is a mixed case or six-pack sampler to please both the neophyte and connoisseur. These selections will perform well at a dinner or cocktail party, or provide a great go-to option at home throughout the year and down the road.  

Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Pierre Moncuit-Delos, Champagne, France NV  ($32.95)
Move over Veuve Yellow Label! This small family run operation knows Chardonnay! The estate and holdings are in Le Mesnil sur-Oger which is the most revered village in all of Cotes de Blancs. Do you need a bubbly in the same fold as Salon and Krug, but need to stay in budget? Well, Moncuit is waiting for your love!

2006 Fratelli Pra, Soave Classico Superiore “Vigneto Monte Grande”, Veneto, Italy ($25.00)
I just tasted this at the Gambero Rosso Road Show in San Francisco. This single vineyard Soave is a far cry from your Grandma’s Bolla of the 1970s! The 2006 is a flat-out crowd pleaser, guaranteed!

2006 Pascal Cotat Sancerre Chavignol “Mont Damnes”, Loire Valley, France ($34.95)
The Holly Grail of Sauvignon can be found in Chavignol, specifically the Mont Damnes parcel. A truly benchmark French category that’s a little bit of sunshine in the glass with bright citrus-flint infusion on the nose, followed by high beam lime zest, sea salt and a tinge of raw almonds on the mid-palate. Got Chevre?

2004 Bodegas y Vinedos Maurodos- San Roman, Toro, Spain ($49.00)
Tempranillo Supreme! Highly-regarded winemaker Mariano Garcia’s (formerly of Vega Sicilia) new Toro project really shines with the stellar 2004 vintage. Bush-trained 100% Tempranillo vines (70-year-old average) are kept to extremely low yields, which transfers into the glass with concentrated black n’ blue notes. Decant in its youth for aeration purposes. This darling needs at least a couple years to mellow out!

2004 Cantina Terlano Lagrein Porphyr Riserva, Alto Adige, Italy ($39.00)
Lagrein is native to Alto Adige, and it’s safe to say you won’t find it outside the Dolomiti. Cantina Terlano is a cooperative of long-established growers founded in 1893. Experience goes a long way, which is especially clear with the “Porphyr” single vineyard effort. Lagrein is always meat,y without the sappy fruit you find with many “New World” reds. Silkened blackberry fruit is laced with bitter dark chocolate and mineral notes.

2004 Domaine du Caillou Chateauneuf du Pape "Les Quartz", Southern Rhone, France ($69.00)
This effort is one of my favorite Chateauneufs. Here’s a great pick for someone who leans more toward a California style. But don’t be fooled, this effort is truly French; the old-vine Grenache sings with white pepper, followed on the palate by dark berry fruit, Kirschwasser encased in a cloak of mouthwatering minerality.

I am often asked how to improve your palate and sensory evaluation skills. The golden rule is taste, taste, taste. But there is another basic strategy that you can employ to further your skill and enjoyment - take advantage of sensory experiences in your daily life. You can learn and explore by simply going to the Farmer’s market or the grocery store, hiking in Muir Woods, visiting the florist or nursery, and cooking at home. These are just a few examples of opportunities to establish standard sensory reference points for later tasting.

Once you make a small adjustment in recognizing these opportunities and practicing, you will expand your abilities and enjoyment.  Here are some common descriptors:

Reds

In French reds, look for forest floor in Bordeaux, and more specifically, pencil shavings in Pauillac Bordeaux; mushrooms in Red Burgundy, underbrush in Chateauneuf du Pape, and bacon in Cote-Rotie. For the Italian reds, there are truffles in Barolo and Barbaresco, spice box in Chianti Classico, and rose in Nebbiolo. Other common characteristics are tar or asphalt in Syrah, and eucalyptus in the Aussie rendition; mint in Napa Cabernet, and bouillon in Spanish Tempranillo.

Whites

In French whites, you’ll find Meyer lemon and key lime in Sancerre, honey in Vouvray, and wet stones in Chablis. In Sauternes and Viognier, look for stone fruits, lychee in Gewurztraminer, petrol in Riesling, cut grass in Sauvignon Blanc, and apple pie and crème brulee in new world Chardonnay.

Being aware of these sensory markers and opportunities will make you a better taster and make wine tasting and evaluation that much more rewarding.  Have fun with this.

If there’s one thing I’ve learned in my 20s it’s that weddings are…expensive. But, not surprisingly, they are also great opportunities to try new wine! My brother got married at BR Cohn Winery in Glen Ellen on a sweltering summer day and we fought the heat with plenty of sparkling. One of my best friends tied the knot the weekend just prior, at her parents’ vineyard in Sonoma. They grow grapes for Castle Vineyards, and had a Merlot from their property bottled with a special wedding label. At both of these fun events, the wine flowed like, well, wine.

This past weekend my family celebrated another wedding as my step-sister got married in Tahoe. (Congratulations again Elisabeth and Darrell!) The setting was picturesque, the weather perfect, and again the wine was delicious. I love being able to hear what people who don’t work around wine for a living have to say about what’s in their glasses; it’s refreshing and honest, and not obscured with typical review jargon. Here’s what we were drinking, along with some comments from my family members:

2006 Kistler Chardonnay Les Noisetiers  – “Smokey, flinty. There’s a lot to it,” said my brother, and an hour later his wife commented, “Oh, fruity!” This also got a round of “I like it” comments from the table.

2005 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Reserve – My father: ”Tastes good with the duck sausage. A little more please.” By the way, it also went well with the rack of lamb.

2003 Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Napa/Sonoma – My eloquent brother: “Now that’s what I’m talking about. Why do you even bother with Pinot?”

At the end of the night, my dad and I fought over the two unopened bottles that remained. He ended up with the Pinot and I got the Chardonnay.  I think I won.